SIHH 2014: Jaeger-LeCoultre Unveils Their New Timepieces. All of Them are Just Amazing.

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In addition to some of the timepieces that had been unveiled right before the SIHH 2014, Jaeger-LeCoultre surprised everyone with a very large number of new watches including the Hybris Mechanica 11, Master Ultra Thin 1907 and Master Ultra Thin Grand Feu, Master Ultra Thin and Master Ultra Thin Date, the chocolate Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931, the Duomètre Unique Travel Time and Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire and the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel amongst others.

More pictures and full reviews to follow. For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre SIHH 2014 Novelties click here.

Posted on January 20, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Jaeger-LeCoultre, SIHH and tagged SIHH 2014 Jaeger-LeCoultre Novelties 2014.

SIHH 2014: IWC Presents the New Aquatimer Collection. Stunning and Well Balanced.

Today at the SIHH 2014 in Geneva, we were able to finally see the new IWC Aquatimer collection composed of nine new gorgeous looking watches. More pictures and full reviews to follow. In the meantime enjoy these images.

For more info on IWC's SIHH 2014 Novelties click here.

Posted on January 20, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under SIHH, IWC and tagged SIHH 2014 New Aquatimer Collection 2014.

SIHH 2014: Audemars Piguet Reinvents the 42mm Royal Oak Offshore as ref. 26470. Live Pictures and Pricing.

A while back we heard from Francois-Henry Bennahmias that the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Rubber Clad would not be discontinued but reinvented. Well, today we finally saw the result from such reinvention not only for the now long gone Royal Oak Offshore Rubber Clad but also for the whole Royal Oak Offshore 42 mm line. The result a new redesigned case with ceramic pushers, ceramic crown, a more robust crown guard, display case back, a revamped dial layout with méga tapisserie, thinner numbers and very nicely done rubber straps with a very similar look to the strap on the Royal Oak Offshore Diver. The new reference number is now 26470 with six new models in total.

More pictures and details to follow. Sticker Prices:

Stainless steel 42 mm Royal Oak Offshore on Hornback alligator $26,000 USD, Stainless steel 42 mm Royal Oak Offshore Navy on rubber strap $25,600 USD, 42 mm Royal Oak Offshore 18K Rose Gold on strap $40,700 USD and 42 mm Royal Oak Offshore 18K Rose Gold on matching bracelet $69,200 USD.

For more info on Audemars Piguet SIHH 2014 novelties click here.

Posted on January 20, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under SIHH, Audemars Piguet and tagged SIHH 2014 New AP Diver New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore ref. 26470 2014.

Experience: SIHH 2014. Reporting Live From Geneva, Switzerland.

We will be reporting via this website and our Twitter, Instagram, Facebook and Tumblr accounts all week straight from Geneva, Switzerland during the week of the SIHH 2014. Flying from London to Geneva via Swiss Air is always a pleasure.

We have settled into our headquarters for the week at the Intercontinental Geneva and we are ready to start our reporting.

Stay tuned for more as we will be posting updates several times a day.

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Posted on January 19, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, SIHH and tagged SIHH 2014.

Experience: MARCUS Watches in London. A Watch Shopping Paradise for Audemars Piguet and Haute Horlogerie Lovers.

As we prepare to report directly from Geneva during our week at the SIHH 2014, we decided to spend a few days in London. As many of you know, London is considered a must when it comes to watch shopping. When it comes to Audemars Piguet and highly complicated watches, there is no better place to stop by other than MARCUS watches located on 170 New Bond Street. MARCUS is advertised as containing “The most important collection of watches in the World” and we can say that they deliver on that promises. The range of brands they carry is truly formidable, ranging from long-established, high end brands such as Audemars Piguet, Piaget, Girard-Perregaux and Zenith to more recent haute horlogerie brands like Richard Mille, Urwerk, MCT, Hautlence and Greubel Forsey amongst others.

The store was established in its current form by Marcus Margulies whose family company, Time Products, dates back to the early 1960’s when his Father Alexander moved to England from Poland and established a business distributing inexpensive watches imported from the Soviet Union. This company was named Sekonda and is now the UK’s best-selling watch brand. Time Products has worked closely with the Swiss Luxury Watch Industry and is currently the UK distributor for Hublot and Franck Muller. Other brands that have been distributed by Time Products in the UK include Blancpain, Breguet, Girard-Perregaux, Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet which was distributed in the UK, Switzerland and the U.S. for over 15 years.

The store has one of the rarest collections of vintage and antique timepieces in the world. The collection was started in 1989. During the past twenty years it has bought some extremely rare, sometimes unique, pocket and wristwatches, the majority having been produced by the watch companies Time Products represents. The purpose of the collection has always been to support retail customers by promoting the brands when they hold exhibitions. Below you will see a picture of Marcus, the man behind this watch shopping paradise.

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As you head into this fascinating boutique you'll experience a very interesting combination of modern and antique decor. The boutique is nestled inside an old building that according to UK laws, its interior can only be modified to certain extent and features like its crown molding or its staircase had to be kept intact. Therefore, you will find a nice combination of the old meeting the new, the same fascinating combo that we find in the rare and exclusive timepieces than can be found here. MARCUS sells some of the most interesting unique piece limited editions including sets and watches like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore MARCUS limited edition, the Richard Mille RM028 Divers Set of 3 unique pieces, the Greubel Forsey set of 3 pieces as well as some amazing Urwerks, MCTs, Hublots and Franck Mullers amongst others.

The boutique spreads over four levels of elegant decor, free standing showcases and perfectly designed salons with excellent natural light. The boutique is quite large but very intimate and inviting despite the fact that as soon as you walk in the first timepieces that greet you include a very rare 18K rose gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication with skeletonized dial of which only 3 pieces were ever made and priced well above $700,000 USD. As you head upstairs you know you are in for a big treat as the Audemars Piguet room awaits you. A salon that includes some of the most fascinating Audemars Piguet timepieces we've ever seen and the largest inventory on display. Now, let's move on to the images and let these do the talking. Below you will see several very hard to find pieces including one of the MARCUS limited editions as well as a exclusive Royal Oak with diamond baguettes and emeralds.

Now meet one of the three limited edition Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshores exclusively created for MARCUS. This one is the Royal Oak Offshore Black DLC Steel Marcus Limited Edition of 50 pieces in blackened DLC steel case with black "Mega Tapisserie" dial, white Arabic numerals, crown and pushers in white, case back engraved with the Marcus M logo and a white rubber strap. You need to see one in person to really fully appreciate it. Just amazing.

As you continue to move upstairs, you are greeted by a beautiful display full of antique watchmaking tools and some fascinating timepieces that left us in awe. Elegance and refinement are the name of the game at this boutique where even a beautiful Asprey leather backgammon set is awaiting there for one to play a quick round with Marcus while watch shopping. On this level you will find a 3-piece set of Greubel Forsey Tourbillons all numbered with the number 7, a Richard Mille RM022 Tourbillon Diamonds Marcus unique piece, a unique Piaget watch with 'cloissoné' enamel case and dial and a unique piece of the fascinating ultra complicated Urwerk UR-1001 Zeit Device pocket watch in blackened platinum instead of the traditional AlTiN treated steel. This Urwerk weighs almost a kilo —2 pounds— of platinum and measures an era in its entirety, from a second to a millennium with a revolving satellite complication with wandering hours, retrograde minutes, revolving satellite calendar with months and dates, day/night indicator, power-reserve indicator, running seconds, “Oil change” indicator for every 5 years, running-time indicator for a century and linear running-time indicator for a millennium.

After you're done some serious shopping upstairs and just in case you have time for some wine and more APs, you might be escorted downstairs to the lower level where an amazing built-in watch display with winders, wine cellar and humidor awaits you. Just in case you didn't find anything you liked upstairs at the Audemars Piguet salon, down here you will find another huge selection of APs including the Royal Oak Offshore Sachin Tendulkar Limited Edition.

As you head back upstairs to the ground level, pay close attention to the antique table where the stairs end, here you will see the amazing Reuge by MB&F Music Machine in its full glory and behind no glass. After an unforgettable experience perusing some of the most exclusive and exceptional timepieces you can find in London and the world, we thank Alex at MARCUS for such a wonderful afternoon and great hospitality. Thanks for making us feel at home.

For more info on MARCUS watches click here.

Posted on January 18, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Watch Shopping and tagged Marcus Watches Watch Shopping London Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Perpetual Calendar Piaget Unique Piece in Cloissone Case Richard Mille RM022 Tourbillon Marcus Diamonds Urwerk UR-1001 Zeit Device Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Diamonds and Emeralds Asprey Backgammon Set Greubel Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon Secret Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Marcus Limited Edition Marcus Margulies Top Watch Shopping.

News: Pre-SIHH 2014 Jaeger-LeCoultre Presents the Hybris Mechanica Eleven Watch. A 75-Piece Limited Edition Ultra Thin Minute Repeater with Flying Tourbillon.

A Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon, a new era in the world of Grand Complications
In 1907, Jaeger-LeCoultre laid the foundations of what was to prove a key element in the identity of its watches. That was the year when the association between Paris-based businessman Edmond Jaeger and Swiss watchmaker Jacques-David LeCoultre gave birth to the world’s thinnest pocket watch featuring a blend of aesthetic refinement and horological sophistication that only a Manufacture uniting the full range of skills under one roof could hope to achieve. Today, Jaeger-LeCoultre confirms its ability to anticipate the future of Fine Watchmaking by unveiling the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon watch, the eleventh creation in the Hybris Mechanica collection and the first ultra-thin Grand Complication model.
Eleven, the number standing for inventions and exceeding expectations. Hybris Mechanica Eleven watch, a new era – that of ultra-thin Grand Complications.

Think-tanks composed of insatiable visionaries and tireless developers: such is the very nature of the teams at Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre. It enables them, just one year after the introduction of the Master Ultra Thin Jubilee, to present an authentic pioneer in the field of Grand Complications. The newcomer bears a name revealing a set of technical feats that are bound to stimulate the imagination of Fine Watchmaking connoisseurs. And rightly so. The Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon stems from research on two iconic horological complications. It is indeed the slimmest minute repeater in its category at just 7.9 mm thin. This watch capitalises on eight separate patents, six of which are entirely new. Its entire development process was governed by two watchwords – ingenuity and performance. Its quintessence lies in a successful bid to achieve extreme slenderness while making no compromises on reliability.
Hybris Mechanica Eleven is equipped with an original tourbillon, a high-performance new balance-spring, a peripheral automatic winding system, a retractable single push button, as well as a new minute repeater equipped with a silent-timelapse reduction system. As the latest addition to an illustrious and fertile saga of Jaeger-LeCoultre striking watches, this model consolidates the brand’s leadership in this field. Hybris Mechanica Eleven watch resolutely confirms that excellence and surpassing existing limits are second nature to Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Contrary to the classic tourbillon with a construction that tends to obstruct the view of certain components, the Manufacture wished to allow complete visibility of the heart of the watch. Avoiding ordinary solutions, Jaeger-LeCoultre watchmakers have developed and patented an all-new tourbillon. Hybris Mechanica Eleven watch is equipped with a world première in the shape of a flying tourbillon fitted with a flying balance-wheel. This technical feat ensures a full view of both balance-wheel and spring that may both be observed in motion from a radically different perspective. The gaze is captivated by the regular swinging of the balance-wheel, with the balance-spring fixed above it in a highly unusual stage-setting. This expressive and appealing construction also contributes to reducing the overall thickness thanks to the prodigious inventiveness of the master-watchmakers in the Manufacture. These substantial developments required rethinking the regulating organ and developing a new balance-spring specifically hand-crafted in the Complications workshop. All the characteristics of this new tourbillon are geared towards achieving extreme precision, watchmaking’s ultimate goal.

In its absolute quest to optimize components, the Manufacture has conceived and developed an automatic winding system that captivates by its remarkable conception and execution. To provide more space and achieve record-breaking ultra-thin dimensions, the winding is handled by a oscillating peripheral weight with a platinum segment visible through narrow openings on the dial. This platinum segment takes advantage of the wearer’s wrist movements to revolve around the dial and wind the mainspring. It is fitted on a ceramic ball bearing mechanism specially developed for this device. It is also extremely effective and able to move freely in either direction. However only clockwise rotation actually winds the calibre. The sculptural purity of the perfectly integrated high-performance oscillating weight becomes an aesthetic element in its own right, thereby further enhancing the graphic power of the watch.

Hybris Mechanica Eleven watch stems from a new line of approach: a minute repeater movement entirely rethought and rebuilt to be ultra-thin. A minute repeater strikes the hours, quarters and minutes on demand. When there are no quarters to be struck, a lengthy silent timelapse occurs between sounding the hours and the minutes. While there is always such an audible hiatus in the sequence, it is particularly audible when there are no quarters involved. To solve this problem, an innovative system reducing this silent timelapse was developed. It detects the absence of quarters to be struck and thus eliminates the marked pause between striking the hours and minutes. As a result, the appropriate high- and low-pitched notes seamlessly follow their appointed pattern without breaking the tempo. Again as part of an effort to make the watch even slimmer while preserving an extremely pure aesthetic, this minute repeater is activated by a retractable single pushbutton for which the Manufacture has filed a patent. Hybris Mechanica Eleven is equipped with a discreet locking system at 8 o’clock. Actuating it brings out the pushbutton that triggers the minute repeater. Once the minute repeater is activated, the pushbutton returns to its initial recessed position, thus ensuring that nothing disturbs the flowing, elegant appearance of the watch. The discretion, the user-friendliness and the technical feat represented by this retractable push button are not the only advantages of this ingenious innovation. As opposed to the traditional slides used to activate the minute repeater function and for which the length of travel may vary according to the hour to be struck, this construction ensures a constant 2 mm travel distance that is enough to both wind the barrel and trigger the minute repeater.

Issued in a 75-piece limited edition, Hybris Mechanica Eleven is powered by Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 362 and has a 45-hour power reserve. It is crafted in ultra-white 18-carat gold and teamed with a high-end alligator leather strap secured by a white gold pin buckle. The impressive complexity of Hybris Mechanica Eleven foreshadows the future presentation of the Hybris Artistica collection – of which the mission is to combine the most technical and creative skills of the artisans within a Manufacture housing 180 different forms of know-how. Jaeger-LeCoultre is more strongly inspired than ever by the intangible heritage of the Maison: the unquenchable thirst to push existing boundaries and to create timepieces in the vanguard of innovation. Driven by such strong convictions, Hybris Mechanica Eleven places Jaeger-LeCoultre firmly at the very pinnacle of ultra-thin horology and Grand Complications.

For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.


TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon
Movement: Mechanical automatic movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 362, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand. 45-hour power reserve, 21,600 vibrations per hour, 471 parts, 4.8 mm thick, 33.3 mm in diameter.

Dial: Silver-toned, grained, Traditional baton-type —transferred.

Hands: Dauphine.

Functions:
Hours, minutes
Minute repeater equipped with silent-timelapse reduction function
Flying tourbillon with flying balance-wheel
Automatic winding via a peripheral oscillating weight

Case: 18-carat extra-white gold, 7.9 mm thick and 41 mm in diameter.
Polished lugs, entirely polished caseband and bezel

Water resistance: 3 bar

Strap: Black high-end Jaeger-LeCoultre alligator leather, white gold high-end pin buckle

Reference: 1313520, 75-piece limited series.

Posted on January 16, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, SIHH, Jaeger-LeCoultre and tagged Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica Jaeger-LeCoultre ref. 1313520 Jaeger-LeCoultre Ultra Thin Minute Repeater and Flying Tourbillon Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 362 2014.

News: JEANRICHARD Launches the Aeroscope 208 Seconds. Honoring Captain Chesley "Sully' Sullenberger and the Miracle on the Hudson.

Last night January 14th, 2014, JEANRICHARD honored its brand ambassador, Captain Chesley “Sully” Sullenberger to commemorate the 5th Anniversary of the landing of Flight 1549 on the Hudson River with the launch of the special edition “208 Seconds” Aeroscope watch. The event that took place at a well-known watch store on Madison Avenue in New York City, celebrated how the American hero saved 155 people in only 208 seconds on January 15, 2009.

 “We are privileged to have worked with Captain Sullenberger on our new “208 Seconds” Aeroscope”, said Bruno Grande, COO of JEANRICHARD. “The watch showcases the importance of time, Sully’s inspirational achievement in seconds of great urgency, and his efforts since then to continue to help change and improve people’s lives and support organizations such as the American Red Cross and the Rory Staunton Foundation. This is very much in line with JEANRICHARD’s values and philosophy of life. In situations such as those on January 15, 2009, one can only rely upon your training, preparedness and the knowledge that you are serving a cause greater than yourself”, said Captain Sullenberger. “The “208 Seconds” Aeroscope I was able to design with JEANRICHARD also symbolizes the values of personal responsibility and I am grateful for their support of my philanthropic work.”

208 seconds made Captain Sullenberger a hero and the watch's automatic chronograph movement perfectly embodies the spirit and respect that the Captain and JEANRICHARD have for time. The 208 seconds are represented by a subtle marked white and red timeline on the timepiece’s black dial. Available on a black Barenia calfskin strap, the JEANRICHARD “208 Seconds” Aeroscope is a re-interpretation of the old aviators’ watches, and with its titanium cushion-shaped case shares a man’s most enduring dream with style. Part of the proceeds of the watch will go to The American Red Cross and The Rory Staunton Foundation, two of Captain Sullenberger's philanthropic endeavors. 

Throughout the event guests also participated in a social media challenge, where they were tasked to take a wrist shot of the new “208 Seconds” Aeroscope and post it to their Instagram account. The “Best Shot” will be re-grammed today, January 15th, through the brand’s Instagram account @JRwatches. The winner will receive a “208 Seconds” Aeroscope watch.

Sticker Price $5,400 USD. For more info on JEANRICHARD click here

Posted on January 15, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Events, News, JEANRICHARD and tagged JEANRICHARD Aeroscope 208 Seconds Bruno Grande COO JEANRICHARD Chesley Sully Sullenberger.

News: Pre-Baselworld 2014 Omega Unveils the New Speedmaster Mark II. A Classic Chronograph Gets Updated with Two Fascinating Dial Variants.

1969 was a memorable year for humankind. For the first time, we broke our terrestrial bonds and set foot on another world – and the astronauts who took those first steps on the lunar surface were equipped with Omega Speedmaster Professional chronographs. The same year, Omega introduced the new-look Speedmaster Mark II, a timepiece with a streamlined case that was powered by the same space-tested, hand-wound calibre 861 found inside the Moonwatch. In 2014 Omega has reintroduced this classic Speedmaster Mark II and updated it to include an automatic movement and tachymetric scale that is visible in the most limited light – a first in the iconic Speedmaster family.

The polished and brushed stainless steel case is barrel-shaped and has a polished crown and pushers. A date corrector is located at 10 o’clock on the case. The dial is complete with the three recognisable sub-dials: a 30-minute recorder at 3 o’clock, 12-hour recorder at 6 o’clock and small seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock. A flat scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects the matt black or grey dial. The transparent tachymetric scale on the sapphire crystal is illuminated from beneath by an aluminium ring filled with Super-Luminova. The varnished white and black hour and minute hands are coated with Super-LumiNova as is the central chronograph hand. For Omega fans and Speedmaster fanatics who are looking for an iconic design with a bit of colour, the Speedmaster Mark II with the grey dial features a fluorescent orange central chronograph seconds hand and a matching minute track.

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The case is fitted with a brushed stainless steel bracelet, complete with Omega’s patented extendable fold over rack-and-pusher clasp. The watch is presented with a tool that makes adjusting the date quick and easy. Distinguishing the new Speedmaster Mark II from the 1969 watch that inspired it is the Co-Axial calibre 3330, a self-winding movement equipped with an Si14 silicon balance spring and a column-wheel chronograph mechanism. The new Omega Speedmaster Mark II is water resistant to 100 metres / 330 feet and is delivered with a full four-year warranty.

More details coming when we are reporting from Baselworld 2014 at the end of March. For more info on Omega click here.


Posted on January 14, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Omega, News, Baselworld and tagged Omega Speedmaster Mark II 2014.

News: Pre-Baselworld 2014 Breva Genève Unveils the Génie 02 Terre. Full Presentation of the Watch in Geneva Next Week.

Following the success and ground breaking technology behind the Génie 01 with barometer, next week in Geneva —taking advantage of the fact that the international press will gather at the SIHH 2014—, Breva Genève will be presenting the new addition to their collection, the Breva Génie 02 Terre.

This new watch combines the stunning sophistication of a beautifully crafted mechanical timepiece with the practicality of a fully functional, high-performance mechanical altimeter. The Génie 02 Terre is a limited edition of 55 pieces in titanium G5 and is available with either meter or feet calibrations on the altimeter.

The superbly finished proprietary movement, much of which can be fully appreciated through the open dial and display case back, was developed exclusively for Breva by award-winning movement constructor Jean-François Mojon from Chronode. Génie 02 Terre is 100% Swiss-made, from inception to realization.

The dial side is dominated by a sub-dial at 8 o'clock displaying hours and minutes, and the precision altimeter sub-dial at 2 o'clock displaying meters or feet. Arching around the top of the dial is the large-scale altitude indicator, which displays up to 5,000 meters —16,400 feet—, with small seconds below. At 4 o'clock, an indicator shows when the air valve is open or closed —it must be open to indicate the altitude—, below which is the 65-hour power reserve indicator. In pride of place at the bottom of the dial, the top of one of the two aneroid capsules measuring air pressure —from which the altitude is derived— is visible, with a high-precision arm multiplying by 200 times the expansion and contraction of the capsules and relaying the air pressure to the two altitude indications.

Three chevron-engraved crowns wind, set, adjust and operate the functions of Génie 02:

a. 9 o'clock: Two-position crown both winds the movement and sets the time.

b. 2 o'clock: A screw down crown rotates both the altitude's precision-scale and large-scale to adjust for variations in air pressure, which affect altitude readings.

c. 4 o'clock: Screw down crown either seals air out of the movement or allows it in —for altitude function. Longevity and reliability of the timepiece are maximized by means of an osmotic Teflon membrane that filters any moisture and humidity from any air before it enters the movement. Just above the crown, a white indicator marked 'SEALED' warns when valve is locked.

Turning the Génie 02 Terre over, the complexity of the beautifully finished 415-component movement can be more fully appreciated. The movement is framed by the names of prestigious ski resorts − Aspen, Vail, Las Lenas, Gstaad, St Moritz, Zermatt, Courchevel, Cortina, Kitzbuhel, and Lech − along with their altitudes, engraved around the perimeter of the case back. When winding the movement you can see the rotation of the cap of the mainspring barrel.

We will be reporting from Geneva all next week to bring you all the news from the SIHH 2014 and live images of this amazing timepiece.

For more info on Breva Genève click here.

Posted on January 14, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Baselworld, Breva and tagged Breva Geneve Genie 02 Terre Chronode Jean-Francois Mojon SIHH 2014.

Macros: Breguet Hora Mundi ref. 5717. One of Our Favorite Worldtimers.

The Breguet Classique Hora Mundi ref. 5717 in 18K rose gold or platinum is our second favorite worldtimer right after the Patek Philippe ref. 5130 in terms of functionality and our favorite one in terms of design. This watch is fitted with a robust 43mm case and with the Breguet automatic calibre 77F0. For this particular watch, there are three versions of the dial available each representing one part of the world: the Americas, the European and African continents, or Asia and Oceania with a total of six different references. The dial features chapter ring with Arabic numerals, light blue inlay depicting the ocean, highly polished 'bass relief' continent and the Breguet secret signature between 12 and 1 o'clock.

Besides its elegant and unique design, the greatest feature about this watch, is its iconic complication with an instant-jump 24 timezone display system with synchronized date that with the push of the button located at 7 o'clock you can jump from your pre-selected home time to the pre-selected second time zone back and forth as many times as necessary with a synchronized date indicator. The home time and second time zone are displayed in a small aperture at 6 o'clock, the date is displayed at 12 o'clock and a delicate and intricately finished moon phase aperture is located at 3 o 'clock.

Sticker Price $78,900 USD —18K rose gold— $94,200 USD —platinum. For more info on Breguet click here.

Posted on January 14, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Breguet and tagged Breguet Hora Mundi ref. 5717br/us/9zu Breguet Hora Mundi ref. 5717pt/us/9zu 2014.

Insider: Frédérique Constant Moontimer. An Inexpensive Swiss Made Mechanical Timepiece with In-House Movement.

If you are an avid reader of our watch blog, you know by now that we only feature watches that we deem worthy talking about. You then also know, that we will feature watches regardless of their price point as long as we like them and as long as we think that they meet certain criteria in terms of craftsmanship and design. One thing we can promise, is that we will never feature fashion watches from Gucci, Ralph Lauren or Burberry in this website. Because of this commitment, we have decided to feature this beautiful Frédérique Constant timepiece, a watch that comes from a 25 year old Swiss manufacture that offers great affordable timepieces fitted with in-house calibres, yes, it is not a typo we are talking about 'in-house calibres'.

Frédérique Constant was established in its current form in 1988. Aletta Bax and Peter Stas launched their first collection in 1992, comprising six models fitted with Swiss movements and assembled by a watchmaker in Geneva. Today, each Frédérique Constant watch is hand-assembled at their manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates in Geneva with an estimated production of 125,000 pieces a year. The name 'Frédérique Constant' comes from two names: Frédérique Schreiner—1881-1969— and Constant Stas—1880-1967. Peter Stas current Managing Director of Frédérique Constant S.A., is a 4th generation descendant of Mr. Constant Stas, who founded his company in 1904, making printed clock dials for the watch industry.

The Frédérique Constant Moontimer ref. FC-330B6B6 is a watch that we've always liked and one that offers a moon phase and date complication in a well balanced, well crafted timepiece. While many like to describe Frédérique Constant timepieces as mere copycats of Pateks or Jaeger-LeCoultres, we like to think of this manufacture as one that is a perfect point of entry into the Swiss made mechanical watches category with a product that follows horological design principles established centuries ago by the fathers of horology, rather than a company that offers watches that pretend to be a look-alike or wannabe of timepieces designed by the leading 'haute horlogerie' manufactures. After reviewing this timepiece, we can say with confidence that you are getting your money's worth, not more not less.

The Frédérique Constant Moontimer ref. FC-330B6B6 is fitted with a nice highly polished stainless steel case measuring 43mm in diameter and 11.4mm in thickness, a black 'calfcroc' strap with deployant buckle and a beautiful black dial with raised white Arabic numerals with luminescent material, central minute chapter ring, red date pointer indicator, moon phase aperture at 6 o'clock and a set of perfectly contrasting leaf-shaped white hands. The dial is nicely finished and the luminescent material on the numbers and hands is quite bright and long lasting. As you know, most watches with this type of design and classical look typically lack of luminescent material at all. The dial is very easy to read and the convex sapphire crystal provides good readability even in poor light conditions. 

The Frédérique Constant  Moontimer ref. FC-330B6B6 is powered by the in-house automatic calibre FC-330 with 26 jewels which provides a power reserve of 38 hours while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. The calibre is very nicely finished considering the inexpensive price point of this watch and even better finished than some calibres we've seen in more well established brands. Kudos to Frédérique Constant for this level of craftsmanship. To make this calibre even better, Frédérique Constant The watch is fitted with a display case back that allows for full view of the calibre and the watch is waterproof to a depth of a 100 meters. Opposed to what you see in some of the more inexpensive watch brands, this watch is individually numbered as it should be.

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One great advantage of this watch over other moon phase watches, is that both the date and moon phase are set via the winding crown without the need for any push pieces around the case band. The crown is a screw-down that is easy to grip but somewhat stiff when pulled out to the winding position. Regardless of the stiffness, one positive thing on this movement, besides the fact that it is a hacking one, is that there's no play at all on the hands when setting the time and pushing the crown back in.

The FC Moontimer is fitted with a very nice handmade matte black calf strap that Frédérique Constant refers to as 'calfcroc' because of its apparent crocodile look with large scales. The strap is properly fitted with a very comfortable and well crafted deployant buckle. The buckle is beautifully engraved with the Frédérique Constant logo and features alternating bead-blasted and highly polished areas. The strap wraps very well around the wrist and is perfectly flushed against the edges of the case with a double spring bar system.

On the wrist the watch wears smaller than its actual size and more like a 40mm watch in a very comfortable and solid way. The watch has a nice weight and it's wrist presence is spectacular for the price. If you are ready to break the paradigm that only an expensive watch is worthy of your wrist, we suggest you give this brand a try and see for yourself. At the very least, you'll find this watch to be a nice 'play watch' for those days when the Patek, Vacheron or Jaeger-LeCoultre needs to stay at home or in the safe.

Sticker Price $2,225 USD. For more info on Frederique Constant click here.

Posted on January 13, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Frederique Constant and tagged Frédérique Constant Moontimer ref. FC-330B6B6 Peter Stas Aletta Bax.

Experience: Deakin & Francis Silver Bull and Bear Cufflinks. Perfectly Made to Match the Girard-Perregaux WW.TC Financial Worldtimer Chronograph in Titanium.

Deakin & Francis was founded in Birmingham, England in 1786 as the manufacturer of some of the world’s finest cufflinks and without a doubt one of the top brands for demanding watchlifestylers. Their workshop in Birmingham produces fine quality handmade jewellery in precious metals, incorporating vitreous enamel and fine gemstones. Seven generations after Charles Washington Shirley Deakin developed the product range, the business is today owned and managed by James and Henry Deakin. Over the last 200+ years, the team at Deakin & Francis has created over 1,000 cufflink designs for business people, celebrities and members of royalty worldwide. Some of their creations range from funky and fun to classic and extremely elegant in precious metals and stones.

The Bull and Bear cufflinks we are presenting you here are the perfect companion for those of you living the 'Wolf of Wall Street' lifestyle. The Bull and Bear Deakin & Francis cufflinks are handmade of sterling silver and encrusted with bright ruby eyes. The oxidized silver along with the ruby eyes are the perfect combination for those seeking a dressy but fun look.

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Deakin & Francis offers a large selection of silver and gold cufflinks, leather cufflink boxes, money clips, wallets, bracelets, bangles and key rings. When it comes to their particularly fancy gold cufflinks, these come set with precious stones or in funky designs to make that first impressions unforgettable. Their gold cufflinks come in either 9K or 18K gold with vitreous enamel, gem set and hand painted crystal cufflinks. The designs are not only very well executed but also quite original including all sort of wild animals and bugs, a vast array of transportation vehicles, foods, drinks, skulls, quirky characters and even some amazing blue enamel and gold knot cufflinks.

Next time you are wearing that fabulous Girard-Perregaux WW.TC Financial Worldtimer Chronograph at the floor, make sure its paired with this oxidized silver cufflinks that match the beautiful dark gray color of its titanium case. Now, if you are one of those that prefers gold watches, these cufflinks are also available in 18K gold with ruby eyes for only $7,970 USD.

Sticker Price $570 USD. For more info on Deakin & Francis click here.

Posted on January 12, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Fashion & Style, Girard-Perregaux and tagged Deakin & Francis Silver Bull and Bear Cufflinks Girard-Perregaux WW.TC Financial Worldtimer Chronograph 2014.

News: Arnold & Son Unveils the Time Pyramid in Stainless Steel. A Fascinating Timepiece and a Real Treat for the Eyes.

Arnold & Son unveils a new reference of its iconic Time Pyramid featuring the hand finished A&S1615 calibre treated in NAC grey, housed in a stainless steel case. The A&S1615 movement with unique skeletonized pyramid-shaped architecture, was conceived, designed and developed in-house. The movement A&S1615 seemingly floats between two sapphire crystals, the Time Pyramid is a masterful rendition of technical prowess and unparalleled elegance. This superbly engineered wristwatch is part of the brand’s Instrument Collection that combines instrument precision with classical styling.

 Inspired by the regulators created by John and Roger Arnold over two hundred years ago, and by antique British skeleton clocks, the new Arnold & Son Time Pyramid offers a highly cohesive and seductive blend of watchmaking feats that includes regulator, skeleton, vertical linear movement, pyramid-placement of components and multi-dimensional depth.

The skeletonized caliber A&S 1615 follows the original regulators from the brand with its component positioning and detailed 3D visual appeal. Movement parts and watch indications are built on three levels, with the subsidiary seconds dial on the bottom, the hour indications on a sapphire crystal dial in the middle level, and a silver top ring for the minutes indication. While the movement is extremely thin-at just 4.4 mm —the multiple levels bring amazing depth and detail to the watch. To further enhance the balance and symmetry of the Time Pyramid, the crown —with Arnold & Son’s engraved logo— is artfully positioned at six o’clock. The gear train runs vertically in a linear format connecting the two barrels at six o’clock to the balance wheel at twelve o’clock, and endowing the movement with its pyramid structure.The bridges are designed so that all of the wheels, the two main spring barrels, the escapement and balance wheel are all magnificently visible from the dial side.

Additionally, the movement is fitted with two power reserve indicators –one each on either side of the linear gear train –to display the energy level for each barrel separately. The power reserve hands indicate the reserve level via graduated dots —that are printed under the top sapphire crystal— in an arc format, and demonstrate how one barrel transfers energy to the second one when needed. Essentially, as the first barrel winds the second one, the power reserve indicator of the first barrel goes down, while the second one goes up –making for an accurate and intriguing readout. The two mainspring barrels supply the hand-wound caliber with an amazing 90 hours of power reserve, and provide a more constant force to the wheel train. As with every esteemed Arnold & Son watch, the movement of the Time Pyramid is magnificently hand decorated with manually chamfered brides and high-polished edges, Côtes de Genève, circular satin- finished wheels and blued screws, all yielding a striking masterpiece of decorative craftsmanship and brilliant execution.

Each Time Pyramid wristwatch measures 44.6 mm in diameter in its classically elegant stainless steel case. Viewed from the side, the housing is stepped and tapers from top to bottom, the widest section accommodating the extra-large glass with the lower part narrowing to fit snugly on the wrist. Each is finished with an exquisite hand-stitched alligator strap.

For more info on Arnold & Son click here.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS OF THE ARNOLD & SON TIME PYRAMID REF. 1TPAS.S01A.C124S

Calibre: A&S 1615 with 27 jewels, manual wound, diameter 37 mm, thickness 4.40mm, power reserve over 90 hours, 21,600 vph.

Dial: sapphire, circular satin-finished dial frame with chamfered and polished edge.

Hands: blued hands with white Super LumiNova.

Case: stainless steel, diameter 44.6mm, cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides, case back see-through sapphire, water-resistant to 30 m.

Strap: hand-stitched black alligator leather.

Posted on January 11, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Arnold and Son and tagged Arnold & Son Time Pyramid Arnold & Son Time Pyramid ref. 1TPAS.201A.C124S Arnold & Son Calibre A&S 1615 2014.

News: Pre-Baselworld 2014 Girard-Perregaux Presents the New Chrono Hawk Steel Bracelet. A Well Needed Addition to the Hawk Collection.

A steel bracelet for the Chrono Hawk collection. The Chrono Hawk line is now available with a stainless steel bracelet in a design and perfect finish that once again demonstrates Girard-Perregaux’s excellence.
The new bracelet of Girard-Perregaux’s Chrono Hawk line instills power and elegance into this resolutely masculine range. Its links form a pattern of remarkable purity and their lines epitomize contemporary watch design. This aesthetic is matched by equally advanced technical qualities, honing the multiple connections between these steel parts for optimum comfort when wearing. This new bracelet has a distinctive functional geometric style combining two types of links ; the first type generates a powerful line running along the middle, while the second surrounds the first. Subtly interwoven, they also exhibit alternating polished and satin finishes on the two outer bevels of the central links.

The fusion between these two types of links forms a finely balanced and well-proportioned ribbon, making a perfect fit with the strong lines of the Hawk Collection’s watch cases. The bracelet closes easily with a secure folding clasp and features a micro-adjustment system to ensure wearing comfort. Finally, it is interchangeable with the rubber version and can be ordered separately. The Hawk collection honors more than 130 years of technical watchmaking tradition, tracing back to 1880, when the Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds provided specially designed watches for the German Navy. Directly descended from the Sea Hawk line, launched in 1940 and adapted for diving in 1970, and the Laureato, a sport model introduced in 1975, the Chrono Hawk has both sleek and sporty lines. Its asymmetric case formed of successive planes is the mark of its modern character, unparalleled in high-end watchmaking. It is topped by a bezel divided into two parts, one circular and the other octagonal, creating a unique visual effect. The technical dial, perfectly
legible and built on several levels, is decorated with a pattern using the shape of the famous Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon Bridge.

In this all-steel version, it is available in two colors: silver as ref. 49970-11-133-11A and metallic blue as ref. 49970-11-431-11A. Inside, the exclusive mechanical self-winding caliber GP03300 displays hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph function.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS OF THE CHRONO HAWK STEEL BRACELET
Case in steel
Diameter: 44.00 mm
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire
Case-back: sapphire crystal, secured by 6 screws
Water resistance: 100 meters (10 ATM)
Girard-Perregaux movement
GP3300-0074 (metallic blue dial)
GP3300-0075 (silver dial)
Mechanical, self-winding movement
Diameter: 30.00 mm (13 ’’’)
Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h - (4 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 46 hours
Jewels: 61
Functions: hour, minute, date, small second, chronograph
Steel bracelet with steel folding buckle micro-adjustable

For more info on Girard-Perregaux click here.

Posted on January 10, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Girard-Perregaux and tagged Girard Perregaux Chrono Hawk Steel Bracelet Girard-Perregaux Chrono Hawk Steel Bracelet ref. ref. 49970-11-133-11A Girard-Perregaux Chrono Hawk Steel Bracelet ref. ref. 49970-11-431-11A 2014.

News: Pre-SIHH 2014 Jaeger-LeCoultre Presents the Duomètre Unique Travel Time. A Fascinating World Timer Complication.

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The Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux undeniably owes its incredible destiny to the inventive spirit of its founder, Antoine LeCoultre. Since 1833, every watch bearing the Jaeger-LeCoultre signature is crafted with the same passion, guided by a constant quest for technical enhancement. Each masterpiece, heir to over 180 years of expertise, benefits from state-of-the-art research. A fresh interpretation of the revolutionary Dual-Wing movement, the Duomètre Unique Travel Time watch in pink gold reflects the technical breakthroughs achieved by the Manufacture in the field of world-time watches and offers original solutions for travelers with a love of Fine Watchmaking.

The Duomètre Unique Travel Time is the first world-time watch enabling to-the-minute adjustment of the second time zone. This enables travelers to accurately set the second time zone on all continents and countries regardless of the time difference. In keeping with the technical and aesthetic spirit of the creations by the Duomètre line signed Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Duomètre Unique Travel Time watch reveals the various facets of horological excellence by the Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux. Past, present and future converge in perfect harmony in this exceptional creation.

For this movement, the Dual-Wing system is divided into two distinct mechanisms: the first is devoted to displaying the local time, and the second to showing that in a second time zone. The two mechanisms share the same regulating organ but each has its own independent source of energy, thereby avoiding the losses due to interaction between the mechanisms. The operation of the dual time-zone display does not in any way influence the running of the watch, a fact that considerably enhances the precision of the watch. Each mechanism has a 50-hour power reserve and, governed by a wish to achieve ideal user-friendliness, the same crown serves to wound both barrels. The timekeeping barrel is wound by a counter-clockwise rotation, and the travel-time barrel by a clockwise rotation.

Given the complexity of the functions, the finely grained dial provides impeccable clarity. Two magnificent symmetrically arranged sub-dials lend a perfectly balanced touch to this horological creation: the first sub-dial at 2 o’clock sets the stage for the hour and minute hand; while the second at 10 o’clock hosts the jumping hour and minutes of the travel time. The globe at 6 o’clock displays a world map surrounded by the time-zone indications and the day/night ring. The globe is synchronized with the travel time. The single crown is used to adjust the local time in position two and the travel time in position one, and, as well as to wind the mainsprings when in position zero. Once both time zones are synchronized, the traveler can simply use the push-pieces at 8 and 10 o’clock to adjust the jumping hours in the left sub-dial according to the destination, and in case of a non-standard time zone, the minutes can be adjusted separately using the crown in position one.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 383, a remarkably beautiful and exquisitely finished movement is revealed through the sapphire crystal caseback. Its bridges and gear trains are hand-chamfered and feature polished sinks. The moving parts, also hand-chamfered or adorned with polished sinks, are graced with a snailed or smoothed finish. These decorative touches are clearly inspired by the grand tradition of the brand’s pocket-watches and lay new milestones through their exceptionally refined finishing. The engraved names of the cities corresponding to the world’s 24 time zones are also visible through the back.

A worthy heir to the Duomètre line, the pink gold Duomètre Unique Travel Time is a celebration of technical and precious Fine Watchmaking, vividly illustrating over 180 years of history while prefiguring the watchmaking of tomorrow.

Technical Specifications of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Unique Travel Time:

Movement: New mechanical manually-wound movement, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 383, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand. 50-hour power reserve for each of the two barrels, 498 parts, 54 jewels, 7.25 mm thick, 34.30 mm in diameter, 28'800 vibrations per hour.

Dial: Grained, silver-toned

Hands: Leaf-type

Functions: Hours, minutes —Home time—, Hour —jumping; 2nd time-zone display—, minutes and world map indication of the two power reserves

Case: Pink gold, 13.65 mm thick, 42 mm in diameter, Polished lugs and satin-brushed caseband.

Water resistance: 5o meters.

Strap: Alligator leather, pink gold pin buckle.

Reference: Q6062520

For more info on Jaeger-LeCoultre click here.

Posted on January 9, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Jaeger-LeCoultre, SIHH and tagged Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Unique Travel Time Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 383 2014.

News: Corum Opens New Boutique in Paris. Located in the Heart of the Golden Triangle.

Corum opens new boutique in Paris' 8th arrondissement on Rue Pierre Charron. The new flagship store is located in the heart of the Golden Triangle, a high luxury area on the right bank of Paris and offering the finest showcase to celebrate the end of the year.
 
Corum continues to strengthen its direct distribution by launching an exclusive new boutique in the heart of the French capital. It is in collaboration with Kronometry 1999 that the brand with a key “unlocked” this prestigious space entirely dedicated to the universe of the La Chaux-de-Fonds Maison.
 
Nestled in a historical building, embellished by the charm of ashlar stones, the store is dressed in accordance with the codes of the brand: the purity of the white intersecting with the character of the ebony softwood. Adorned with premium materials, the boutique will receive the iconic collections of the brand, Admiral's Cup and Corum Bridges, plus a few timepieces of its legendary Heritage collection.
 
This Haute Horlogerie store will offer not only a collection of exclusive timepieces, but also serve as a showcase for the history, know-how and brand philosophy.

For more info on Corum click here.

Posted on January 9, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Watch Shopping and tagged Corum New Paris Boutique 2014.

News: Presenting the New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Doha Boutique Limited Edition. An Offshore with Satin-Brushed Slate Dial.

In celebration of the new Audemars Piguet Doha Boutique opening in Qatar, Audemars Piguet is delighted to unveil a very special version of its Royal Oak Offshore sports watch in the form of a limited edition model specifically designed to honor Qatar and only available at Audemars Piguet Doha Boutique. This new watch features a titanium case measuring the traditional 42 mm in diameter of the Royal Oak Offshore and is fitted with black ceramic bezel. Beyond that, this particular version of the Royal Oak Offshore becomes even more special than most because each of the 100 examples of this limited edition features a satin-brushed, slate grey dial with contrasting anthracite counters for recording elapsed times of 60 seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours. The luminescent Arabic numerals and main hour and minute hands are satin-brushed, and two of the chronograph indicators and the central seconds hand are lacquered in a vibrant red.

Another small, red detail found at the five o'clock position on the tachymeter scale further identifies this particular version of the Royal Oak Offshore. Turning the watch over, meanwhile, reveals Audemars Piguet's characteristic winding rotor through a sapphire crystal display back surrounded by a titanium border.

Each watch will be delivered on a grey alligator strap designed to complement its unique dial design and will be supplied in a special presentation box.

For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.

Technical Specifications of the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Doha Boutique Limited Edition ref. 26219IO.OO.D005CR.01

Calibre:

Selfwinding Manufacture calibre 3126/3840

Function:

Chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds, date

Case:

Titanium case, black ceramic bezel, titanium caseback, numbered XXX/100, black rubber pushpieces and screw-locked crown, water-resistant to 100 m, diameter 42 mm.

Dial:

Satin-brushed slate-grey dial, anthracite counters, satin-brushed  Arabic numerals, hands with luminescent coating, center seconds hand and hands of the counters at 9 o’clock and 6 o’clock painted in red. “Audemars Piguet” printed in white at 3 o’clock. “SWISS MADE” printed in white at 6 o’clock. Anthracite inner bezel with “135” printed in red.

Strap:

Hand-stitched “large square scale” grey alligator strap with titanium AP folding clasp.

Quantity:

Limited Edition of 100 pieces

Réf : 26219IO.OO.D005CR.01

Posted on January 8, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Audemars Piguet, News and tagged Audemars Piguet ref. 26219IO.OO.D005CR.01 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Doha Boutique 2014.

Rare Bird: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tour Auto 2012 Limited Edition. Only 150 Pieces Ever Made and One of Our Favorite Offshores.

Last year while visiting New York City, we stopped by the Audemars Piguet boutique to shop around and work on one of our boutique reviews published here. After looking around for a while we spotted one of our favorite Royal Oak Offshores on display, we are talking about the ultra rare and hard to find Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tour Auto 2012 Limited Edition ref. 26208ST.00.D305CR.01. This watch launched by Audemars Piguet in 2012 to celebrate the 21st edition of the Tour Auto Optic 2000 rally was launched in a limited series of only a 150 pieces with a very special presentation box that contains a watch display case shaped like a vintage automotive air filter.

Now, the main difference between this watch and the previously released Royal Oak Offshore Tour Auto 2008 —Limited Edition of only 100 pieces ref. 26184ST.00.D003CU.01— is that the dial on this newer reference is white opposed to black on its predecessor. Image below courtesy of: TempoInverso.com

The Tour Optic Auto 2000 2012 race was held from April 16th thru the 21st and is Organized by Peter Auto for the Fédération Française du Sport Automobile —FFSA— with licenses from ASA Tour Auto. For an entry fee of €8,300 entrants get five days of competition driving all the way from Paris to a southern destination in France that is typically Nice or Biarritz. The rally race is open to 200 cars which —or the model of which— have participated between 1951 and 1973 in the Tour Optic Auto race. In 2013, the race —22nd Tour Auto Optic 2ooo— took place from April 22nd thru the 27th and for the first time, the finish line was in the southwestern French city of La Rochelle. Audemars Piguet has been the official timekeeper of the competition since 2006, reason why they decided to launch this special watch.

Fitted with the traditional Royal Oak Offshore 42 mm case, this watch in stainless steel features a beautiful white Méga Tapisserie dial with contrasting colors inspired by the French flag with blue chrono counters at 6 and 9 o'clock, white running seconds register at 12 o'clock, blue Arabic numerals, white gold hands with red luminescent coating and a white tachymeter flange with red scale. If you like blue and red, this is perhaps the most appealing and beautiful dials on any Royal Oak Offshore launched to date.

To round out the spectacular look of the watch, Audemars Piguet decided to carefully engrave the case back with the Tour Auto logo and pair the watch with a hornback alligator strap in blue with red contrasting stitching. This watch just like most other Offshores is fitted with a deployant buckle.

The Royal Oak Offshore Tour Auto 2012 is as rare as it gets and one Offshore that is extremely hard to find. On our way out we just couldn't get it out of our head. If you are ready to get a very special limited edition Royal Oak Offshore chronograph that is not the Rubens Barrichelo II reviewed here and that everyone wants, then this is the one. Now, if you can find a Royal Oak Offshore Gentleman Driver Limited Edition that would be a very close contender to this one, if not even superior.

Sticker Price $34,200 USD. For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.

Posted on January 8, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Audemars Piguet and tagged Tour Optic Auto 2000 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore ref. 26208ST.00.D305CR.01 Audemars Piguet Tour Auto 2008 Audemars Piguet Tour Auto 2012 Audemars Piguet ref. 26184ST.00.D003CU.01 2014.

News: Pre-SIHH 2014 Cartier Unveils Two Amazing Rotonde Timepieces. Presenting the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon and the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire.

Celebrating Cartier style in Fine Watchmaking is the Maison's creative approach for 2014. Style is a question of elegance and balance. It is the fountain-head of constant research, supported by technical expertise with a drive that redefines and questions watchmaking conventions by reinventing traditional complications such as the perpetual calendar or by transforming the timeless Tank model. Cartier's achievements in Fine Watchmaking are the fruit of a constantly innovative approach at the service of highly distinctive aesthetics. Its past as an inventor and designer has given rise to a style that favors volume and shapes. The same drive can be seen in the Maison's technical concepts: their freedom and importance have enabled Cartier to revolutionize the representation of time with Fine Watchmaking pieces that adhere to the Manufacture's highest standards. For this 2014 edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, Cartier expresses the excellence of its craftsmanship with the launch of innovative timepieces bearing the Maison's creative seal.

The Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch is the fruit of a technical and creative ambition that for Cartier consists of bringing together two complications in a daring display. Removed from its strictly horological role, in which it serves as a guarantee of precision and prestige, a tourbillon has been incorporated into a moon phase complication, with each one dependent on the other. The watch owes its name to the stylized portrayal of the globe and the moon represented by a tourbillon. Together, they form a creative and animated world with skeletonized Roman numerals surrounding this dynamic feat of watchmaking. The moon-phase mechanism of the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch is founded on a creative and complex design that combines a tourbillon, moon phase on demand and a second time zone. The Tourbillon mechanism is a complex complication that falls within the expertise of a limited number of watchmakers. Its main function is to fight against the effects of gravity when the watch is in a vertical position. Because it appears in its original form and exists only when its user wishes it to, the moon phase on the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch reveals a technical creativity that is doubly innovative. By pressing the push-button situated at four o'clock on the side of the case, a panels descends and partially obscures the Tourbillon carriage. The crescent thus formed reproduces exactly the moon's shape in the sky.

The second time zone of the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch is indicated by a 24-hour disc that was entirely redeveloped by for the calibre 9440 MC due to the sophistication of its disc display. The result of painstaking work, polished lapis lazuli is used for the dial and the moon panel on the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch. The hours and the second time zone are surrounded by a meticulously polished grid in 18-carat white gold. A three-dimensional dial is one of the signature features of the Cartier Fine Watchmaking collection, alongside Roman numerals that are openworked and chamfered by the hand of a master decorator in a manner akin to a skeleton movement. The exceptional finishes of the 9440 MC are all the more remarkable because the semi-skeletonized bridges on the back of the movement are structured in a star shape, echoing this precious timepiece's lunar and terrestrial character on the case back. With the the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch, the Maison Cartier has created a timepiece that displays an exceptional level of creativity and craftsmanship.

Technical Specifications of the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon

Case: platinum
Diameter: 47 mm
Crystal: sapphire
Case back: sapphire
Crown: beaded in platinum set with a blue sapphire cabochon
Dial: Lapis lazuli with an 18-carat white gold grid in the form of Roman numerals
Bezel: platinum
Hands: sword-shaped blued-steel
Casing-up diameter: 47 mm
Case thickness: 16.65 mm
Strap: black alligator-skin
Clasp: double adjustable folding buckle in 18-carat white gold
Water-resistance: 30 meters / 3 bar / 100 feet
Movement: Manufacture mechanical with manual winding, calibre 9440 MC, tourbillon, second time zone, moon phase on demand
Casing-up diameter: 17¼ lines, i.e. 38.8 mm
Total diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 5.65 mm
Number of jewels: 40
Number of parts: 362
Balance: 21,600 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: approx. 3 days
Limited series of 50 numbered pieces.

The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch transforms the very essence of the perpetual calendar's functioning and appearance. The Maison's idea involves inventing a creative central display that stems from a revolutionary concept. Designed like an amphitheater, with the intention of clarifying the perpetual calendar's indications, the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire's display is an incredible watchmaking feat. It overcomes numerous readability issues that are specific to the traditional approach to this complication, which requires the juxtaposition of twelve months, seven days, the date and the type of year in a diameter of just a few centimeters. Arranged three-dimensionally in concentric levels, the display of the perpetual calendar's functions is spread over the different levels: the day is indicated on the first. It is followed by the month on the second, which is itself surmounted by the date. Thin windows move along these tiers. The perpetual calendar's final function is indicated by a hand located on the back of watch and shows what type of year it is: a leap year or a normal year.

Consisting of gear trains, the construction of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch's movement is a watchmaking feat that solves all the functional and ergonomic problems connected with this type of complication. It breaks away from the design of traditional perpetual calendars and introduces an alternative that enables any risk of breakage to be anticipated, adjustment errors to be resolved and chronometry to be improved. Partially patented, the gear train system of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire's 9459 MC movement replaces the traditional lever and spring mechanisms with a gear train mechanism that substantially limits the risk of breakage when the watch is over-wound at inadvisable times. The traditional design of a perpetual calendar prohibits any manual correction several hours before and after midnight at the risk of breaking the mechanism. The adjustments made using four minuscule push-pieces on the side of the case are impractical and never clearly identified. This operating problem no longer exists with the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch's movement thanks to a setting system that uses the crown.
In addition to the traditional setting of the hour and minute, the crown also controls the date and month indicators. This ease of use is further increased by the possibility of correcting the functions both forwards and backwards. Wearers of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch need no longer fear going beyond the current date as this error is easily corrected.

The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch houses at its heart a flying tourbillon: a complication that is emblematic of the Fine Watchmaking collection. The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch is certified "Poinçon de Genève", in accordance with the new regulations' requirements. The self-winding calibre 9459 MC is assembled and adjusted in the new Cartier Fine Watchmaking workshops located in the heart of Geneva, upstairs from the Cartier boutique on the rue de Rhône. Its finishes were carried out according to the standards of the most prestigious watchmaking certification. Combining watchmaking innovation and technical creativity, the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch follows in the footsteps of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrorégulateur and Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon watches, thus taking its place as a major complication in Cartier's repertoire of watchmaking craftsmanship.

Technical Specifications of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire

Case: platinum
Diameter: 45 mm
Crown: beaded in platinum, set with a blue sapphire cabochon
Crystal: sapphire
Case back: sapphire
Dial: silver-colored Bezel: platinum
Hands: sword-shaped blued-steel
Casing-up diameter: 45 mm
Case thickness: 15.1 mm
Strap: black alligator-skin
Clasp: double adjustable folding buckle in 18-carat white gold
Water-resistance: 30 meters / 3 bar / 100 feet
Movement: Manufacture mechanical with automatic winding, calibre 9459 MC, tourbillon and perpetual calendar with circular display, "Poinçon de Genève" certified timepiece
Casing-up diameter: 14 lines, i.e. 31.38 mm
Total diameter: 32 mm
Thickness: 8.1 mm
Number of jewels: 51
Number of parts: 382
Balance: 21,600 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: approx. 50 hours
Limited series of 100 numbered pieces.

For more info on Cartier click here.

Posted on January 7, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, SIHH, Cartier and tagged Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon 2014.

News: Pre-Baselworld 2014 Zenith Presents the Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903. A Limited Edition of 1,903 Pieces.

In their bicycle shop in Dayton Ohio, Wilbur and Orville Wright dreamed of wideopen spaces and freedom. These natural-born inventors conceived a first glider that they launched on the Kitty Hawk dunes in North Carolina. At the same time, they built a wind tunnel to study various technical aspects such as the profile of the wings. Constantly perfecting their prototypes, they installed a stabiliser at the front of a second glider, and then a steering rudder at the back of a third that could thus be controlled: a world first in the field of aeronautics! After hundreds of trials, the two brothers decided to move a step forwards by equipping their glider with an engine. Lying face down on the lower wing of the twin-propeller aircraft named “Flyer”, Orville Wright achieved the first powered, heavier-than-air controlled flight in history, on Kitty Hawk beach. The young man covered a distance of 40 metres at a height of 60 centimeters off the ground. The date was December 17th 1903. Representing a major milestone in aviation history the year 1903 now gives its name to a timepiece created by Zenith as a tribute to the Wright brothers: Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT 1903.

Zenith was one of the first watch manufacturers to create flight instruments to equip various aircraft and spaceships manned by the aviation pioneers. Known for their precision and exceptional ability to withstand vibrations, magnetic fields and variations in temperature, the Zenith altimeters, watches, onboard and wristworn chronographs became extremely popular with pilots, who were thus accompanied in their feats by the brand with the guiding star. In just over a century, Louis Blériot, Léon Morane, or more recently Felix Baumgartner, accomplished their destiny and put their name in the history books with a Zenith instrument on their wrist or on their cockpit controls.

Drawing upon these historical roots, the piece features a case made of black DLC-coated titanium that is therefore ultra-light despite its 48mm diameter. The ratcheted crown typical of historical aviator watches ensures a perfect grip even with pilot’s gloves. The five-time sandblasted black dial reproduces the generous original Arabic numerals ensuring perfect readability day or night. The luminous glow of these delightfully vintage figures stems from a first “old radium” treatment covered with a more classic superluminova treatment. The effect is fascinating and the resulting appearance truly unique, since this ingenious combination creates a creamy shade enlivened by tiny retro accents that cannot be identically reproduced from one watch to the next. Each dial thus becomes unique and further heightens the exclusive character of the 1903-piece limited edition, of which the individual number appears on a special plate screwed to the case band, like an aircraft rivet.

The piece serves as an invitation to travel thanks to a second time-zone indicator powered by the Elite Calibre 693 movement. Finelyadorned with a Côtes de Genève motif even though it remains hidden from sight, it ticks off time at the rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a 50-hour power reserve. Beneath this elegant mechanical heart, the case-back, is adorned with a stamped insignia depicting Orville Wright about the “Flyer”, with his brother Wilbur running along Kitty Hawk beach to follow the feat being accomplished on December 17th 1903.

A sturdy wristband crafted in beige suede leather sets the finishing touch to this model. Its lining features a heat-embossed motif in which connoisseurs will note the inscription “Zenith Flying Instruments” as well as the brand’s historical logo, thus underlining the spirit of an era in which the skies were still waiting to be conquered.

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Technical Specifications of the Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 ref. 96.2431.693/ 21.C740

MOVEMENT
Elite 693, automatic
Calibre: 11 ½ ‘‘‘ (Diameter: 25.6 mm)
Thickness: 3.94 mm
Components: 186
Jewels: 26
Frequency: 28,800 VpH – (4 Hz)
Power-reserve: min. 50 hours
Finishes: Oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” pattern

FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes in the center
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
24-hour second time-zone indicator

CASE, DIAL & HANDS
Material: Titanium case with DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating
Diameter: 48 mm
Diameter opening: 40 mm
Thickness: 15.80 mm
Crystal: Box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
Case-back: Zenith Flying Instruments logo
Water-resistance: 10 ATM
Dial: Matte black
Hour-markers: SuperLuminova SLN Old Radium
Hands: Black ruthenium, satin-finished with
SuperLuminova SLN Old Radium

REFERENCE
96.2431.693/ 21.C740
Vintage-effect nubuck heat-embossed with “Zenith Flying Instruments” logo
Steel pin buckle with black DLC coating

Posted on January 6, 2014 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Zenith and tagged Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 Zenith ref. 96.2431.693/ 21.C740 Zenith Pilot Type 20 Limited Edition 1903 Pieces 2014.