Insider: Maîtres du Temps Chapter Two. A Creation by Peter Speake-Marin and Daniel Roth.

Maîtres du Temps is not so much a new watch company but an entirely new horological concept launched in 2008. Founded by Steven M. Holtzman, it brings groups of master watchmakers together to develop exclusive timepieces. Steven began his career in horology in 1982, when he joined the family owned business —Gruen Watch Company—one of the oldest American watch companies founded in 1894. In 1997, he created Helvetia Time Corporation —HTC— to distribute high-quality Swiss watch brands —including Roger Dubuis— throughout the Americas. With Maîtres du Temps, Holtzman acts as a catalyst for today's greatest master watchmakers to collaborate on the most innovative projects imaginable. This time in order to develop the Chapter Two, Steven brought together two masters of horology, Peter Speake-Marin and Daniel Roth. 

The Chapter Two ref. C2T.05.21.142 in 18K white gold is a fascinating timepiece featuring a triple calendar with a groundbreaking movement that includes two independent rollers to display the month and day of the week. This watch features a polished 'tonneau' shaped case measuring 58mm x 42mm x 16mm that is massive but very elegant at the same time. Every detail on the finish and design of this case exudes elegance and perfection.

The chocolate color engine-turned sun-ray 'guilloché' dial with circular grain satin surfaces features printed roman numerals in white over a black background, running seconds at 6 and big date display at 12 o'clock. The month and day of the week are fully spelled on two black anodized aluminum rollers outside the dial at 12 and 6 o'clock respectively. The hands on the dial are made of 18K white gold and sword-shaped with diamond-cut facets. 

This fascinating timepiece is powered by the automatic Maîtres du Temps calibre SHC01 with a symbolic goblet-shaped rotor in 22K gold, 'panier guilloché' and relief text that reads: "Masters and Their Craft A Life Long Pursuit of Excellence". The movement is comprised of 382 parts and 32 jewels and provides a power reserve of 50 hours when fully wound. The delicate finishing of the bridges features sun-ray 'Côtes de Genève', perlage, beveling, 'colimaçonnage' and polished screw heads. The movement and the rollers are fully visible through the octagonal display case back. Interestingly enough, this timepiece is fitted with a total of six sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating and the day and month correctors are on the back of the case to ease the setting of these complications.

 

The Chapter Two is fitted with a very elegant hand-sewn black alligator strap that is very comfortable and supple. The strap features a double-deployant buckle that is delicately finished and properly engraved. Even the finish of the strap lining is just perfection —notice the Maîtres du Temps stamping on it.

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This timepiece wears very comfortably on the wrist but sits quite high. Now, one thing that you will see when perusing or owning this timepiece, is that the craftsmanship behind it is just out of this world. This is 'haute horlogerie' in its purest form of expression. The watch is also available in 18K red gold and the dial colors available are chocolate brown, black, silver, rose or blue.

Sticker Price $86,000 USD. For more info on Maîtres du Temps click here.  

 

Posted on October 23, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Maitre du Temps and tagged Maitres du Temps Chapter Two Maitres du Temps Calibre SHC01 Masters and Their Craft Steven M. Holtzman Gruen Watch Company Helvetia Time Corporation Peter Speake-Marin Daniel Roth Maitres du Temps Chapter Two ref. C2T.05.21.142 Posts 2013.

Experience: The Jaquet Droz Master Painter Evening. The Art of Hand Painted Dials and an Unforgettable Night.

This past Monday, we had the pleasure of attending a very exclusive event with Jaquet Droz at the Tourbillon Boutique in Chicago —the only retailer in Chicago that carries the brand and a store where you can find some very special Jaquet Droz timepieces. The event featured a Master Painter straight from Jaquet Droz's 'atelier' in Switzerland and a very small and select group of invitees. Once we saw the very talented and friendly Master Painter in action, we knew we were in for a real treat. Her skills were pure perfection in the art of horology.

During this fascinating evening filled with appetizing 'hors d'oeuvres', champagne and a decadent dinner, we were also able to peruse some fantastic timepieces across the different collections of the brand, including some very special watches and novelties like the Jaquet Droz Perpetual Calendar Eclipse, the new Petite Heure Minute relief Seasons, the Grande Heure GMT, the Grande Seconde Quantieme and even an Erotic Automaton Pocket Watch —not appropriate for anyone under 18—, amongst other timepieces.   

Additionally, we were given the opportunity to experience what is like to paint on a Jaquet Droz dial and further understand why their hand painted dials are such magnificent works of art. Each attendee was given a brand new unfinished dial with the outline of the tiger motif in order to finish it by adding the right colors to it with a delicate brush. At the end of the night, we were all given the dial we individually painted  to take it as a keepsake. As you will see in the last picture, our painted dial —as expected— was nowhere near the perfection of the Jaquet Droz enamel painted dials. 

After painting the dials, we all enjoyed a delicious dinner catered by Gibsons Steakhouse —one of Chicago's top restaurants— paired with great wines. For appetizer Roasted Heirloom Beets with Maine Lobster, for entrée a Roast Gibsons Prime New York Steak and for dessert a decadent Chocolate Flourless Cake paired with a nice Lambrusco dessert wine.

An evening filled with great timepieces, nice people, good food and wines is always memorable; however, this particular night is one that will remain engrained in our minds and hearts as the true watchlifestylers we are. Thank you Jaquet Droz and Tourbillon Boutique Chicago!  

For more info on Jaquet Droz click here.

Posted on October 23, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Events, Jaquet Droz and tagged Jaquet Droz Master Painter Jaquet Droz Perpetual Calendar Eclipse Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Relief Seasons Jaquet Droz Grande Heure GMT Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme Erotic Automaton Pocket Watch Gibson's Chicago Tourbillon Boutique Chicago 2013.

Insider: Breva Genève Génie 01. A Mechanical Timepiece with a Built-in Barometer and Altimeter.

Breva Genève is a company that was founded by Vincent Dupontreué on his 33rd birthday in 2010. Fueled by his desire for a nice complicated watch and inspired by a beautiful weekend in Italy's Lake Como, the Breva name came to mind —as ‘La Breva’ is a warm southern wind contributing to the agreeably mild micro-climate around Lake Como— and the marvelous idea of creating a mechanical timepiece that would also forecast the weather. In 2013, after three years of research and development, led by Jean-François Mojon, Vincent Dupontreué launched the Breva Génie 01.

The Breva Génie 01 is available in a limited edition of 55 pieces —of each metal— with a beautiful and very solid case measuring 44.7mm in diameter in either white gold or rose gold. The watch is fitted with three dual-purpose crowns on the caseband. The winding crown is located at 9 o'clock —engraved with Breva's logo—, a second crown located at 2 o'clock is used to make adjustments to the barometric pressure disc and to adjust the position of the altimeter when resetting it via a pusher —this crown is engraved with a wind rose— and a third crown at 4 o’clock is used to lock and unlock the air valve that gauges the atmospheric pressure —engraved with the word AIR. When this third crown is unlocked, the valve opens and allows a small amount of air to equalize air pressure inside the case with the exterior air pressure. Longevity and reliability of the timepiece are maximized by means of an osmotic Teflon membrane that filters any moisture from any air before it enters the movement. 

The multi-layer skeletonized dial features several easy-to-read indicators to keep the wearer fully informed about the time, altitude, power reserve and the weather forecast. The watch features two sub-dials in smoked sapphire crystal with the hours/minutes dial at 8 and the barometer at 2 o'clock with icons providing scientifically based forecasts of likely weather conditions to come. The altitude indicator is located on the top part of the dial as a small flange. Additionally, there is a small indicator at 12 for the running seconds and a 65-hour power reserve indicator at 4 o'clock that is beautifully decorated with a wind rose. Right above the power reserve indicator there is an indicator marked ‘SEALED' that warns when the air valve is in the unlocked position.

By now, most of you might be wondering how this mechanical masterpiece works. Well, at 6 o’clock, there are two aneroid capsules stacked one above the other to measure the slightest change in air pressure as air goes into the watch via the AIR crown. As air goes in, the aneroid capsule expands or contracts with changing air pressure to provide an accurate forecast of the weather conditions. The aneroid capsules in the Breva Génie 01 were especially developed to Breva's specifications to optimise their precision and use in a wristwatch. The capsules are made from a special non-magnetic memory-metal —Breva patented invention— lighter and stronger than aluminum and twice as ductile as steel. A clearly visible lever rests on top of the aneroid capsules and transmits the combined height of the capsules through a complex system of gears and racks to the altimeter indication and the barometer. The altitude display reads from -300 to +5,300 meters, while the barometric display ranges between 973 and 1053 hectopascals —hPa. In a nod to the original method of measuring air pressure in inches of Mercury, an inner scale of the barometer is marked mmHg: Hg being the atomic name for Mercury —Hg from the Greek hydrargyrum meaning ‘silver water’. However, it is important to mention that the watch does not contain any Mercury in it.

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This fascinating horological complication is powered by a proprietary manual-wound movement developed exclusively for Breva by Jean-François Mojon from Chronode. The calibre is composed of 405 parts, 46 jewels and beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph. When fully wound, the calibre provides a power reserve of 65 hours. This gorgeous calibre can be fully appreciated via the display case back. The case back features an engraved hectopascal and altimeter scale.   

This watch is fitted with an elegant black hand-stitched alligator strap with folding clasp. The strap is very comfortable and extremely supple. Even though the watch is waterproof rated to a depth of 30 meters, we wouldn't dare to get this gorgeous strap nor the watch wet. 

On the wrist the Breva Génie 01 wears true to its dimensions and perhaps a little bit too high on the wrist. This fascinating complication is one that will for sure become a conversation starter with other watchlifestylers. We have included an image of the white gold version at the bottom of this review for those of you that like the understated look of the precious metal in its white finish variation. 

Sticker Price $150,000 USD. Only $5,000 USD more for the white gold version. For more info on Breva Genève click here.  

Posted on October 22, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Breva and tagged Breva Geneve Genie 01 Breva Watch With Barometer and Altimeter Breva Genie 01 Barometer Watch Posts 2013.

News: U-BOAT Opens Boutique at the Ponte Vecchio in Florence. Another Italian Landmark.

Press Release

U-BOAT opens another Italian landmark in the Ponte Vecchio historical bridge in Florence.

Being present in Florence, capital of the Renaissance, means a lot for all the prestigious brands but even more for Italo Fontana, creative soul behind U-BOAT, and since the beginning standard bearer of the “Made in Tuscany” values.

Italo, born in the near medieval city of Lucca, announces the opening of the U-BOAT third italian flagship store. The boutique, opens its doors in the short and popular pedestrian Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in Florence spanning the River Arno. It is one of the few remaining bridges with houses built upon.

The opening follows the opening of the Italian boutiques in Milan, Corso Como and also overseas with the recent launch of its 18th boutique in the fashionista Nathan Rd. in Hong Kong.

For more info on U-BOAT click here.  

Posted on October 22, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Watch Shopping and tagged U-BOAT Boutique Florence Ponte Vecchio Italo Fontana 2013.

News: Michael P. Sarp President of the Board of Armin Strom Passes. Our Condolences to His Family and Friends.

Press Release

The Armin Strom AG Manufacture is sad to announce the death of Mr. Michael P. Sarp on October 17, 2013 at the age of 65.

Mr. Sarp had been President of the Board of Armin Strom AG since 2010. With his death, the world of watchmaking acknowledges the passing of a leading personality who understood the industry particularly well.

The Armin Strom AG team has lost a mentor and someone who was extra special in all of our eyes. We shall remember his radiant capacity to communicate and dialogue with people, his greatest passion. His presence among the Armin Strom AG team over recent years made a decisive impact on the existence of the company.

We extend our most sincere condolences to his family and friends. Sincerely, the board of administration, the executive board and all employees of Armin Strom AG.

For more info on Armin Strom click here.  

 

Posted on October 22, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Armin Strom and tagged Armin Strom AG Michael P. Sarp Michael P. Sarp President of the Board Armin Strom.

Experience: A Night with Watch Anish and Seven Friday. What Watchlifetstylers Do.

We are often asked what goes on during a night where two leading watch blogs get together during a watch event. Well, look no further. Here's a photo essay that will give you a glimpse of a wonderful night with Seven Friday watches, Watch Anish and WatchCollectingLifestyle. This was a night filled with Audemars Piguet, Arnold & Son, Seven Friday, Rolex, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Hublot, Jaquet Droz and Linde Werdelin watches amongst others.

All about watches and the good life.

Now Enjoy the Photo Essay!!!

Posted on October 20, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Events and tagged Watch Anish Seven Friday Watches Roka Akor Chicago Negroni Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15400.

Insider: Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro. A Watch Inspired by a Tire Pressure Gauge.

The Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro is a watch that gets its inspiration from a manometer —tire pressure gauge. Giuliano Mazzuoli is an Italian watchmaker and inventor from Florence that comes from a legacy of bicycle makers, clockmakers and watchmakers. Giuliano's family was a prominent tower clock and long case clock maker in the 1700s. In the inventor's words, "There is nothing more difficult to design than simplicity, but one does not design simplicity. It is encountered like the way I encountered the manometro." His watches are designed in Italy but made in Switzerland to guarantee that the highest standards of watchmaking are met.

This fascinating timepiece inspired by simplicity is a watch that one buys not to be recognized but for the mere pleasure of owning it. The Manometro is fitted with a simple rounded highly polished stainless steel case measuring 45.2 mm in diameter and 14.8 mm in thickness. A nice and thick crown is positioned at 2 o'clock making you feel like you are wearing a real manometer on a strap. The simplicity and uniqueness of this watch is unlike any other watch we have reviewed recently. The Italian design of this timepiece is clearly perceived in every single component of the watch from the dial to the strap and everything in between.

This unique timepiece is fitted with a gorgeous ivory dial with black Arabic numerals, a chapter ring, black minute and hour hands, a red seconds hand and a 12 marker in red in order to provide additional contrast. The dial is simple, clean and very well balanced.

Fitted with an automatic ETA movement, the watch is solid, robust and reliable. The movement is protected with a screwed-in solid case back that is beautifully engraved with the timepiece's information. Nothing fancy, just simple and functional.  

The watch is fitted with a handmade —in Tuscany— natural color calfskin strap that is very nice, thick and quite comfortable. Due to the raw leather used on the strap, it will develop a nice patina over time showing more character as its color darkens. The strap is fitted with a pin buckle that is also very comfortable. As you can appreciate in the pictures, the strap is secured into the case by two screws. Additionally, there's a small stainless steel piece attached to the reverse side of the strap to guarantee that it molds correctly on the wrist.

The watch wears extremely comfortably regardless of its thickness and somewhat bulky case. This timepiece is available in a variety of case materials including brushed stainless steel, titanium, carbon fiber, PVD gunmetal gray titanium and a combination of rose gold and titanium. The dial is available in ivory or black.

If you want to wear a watch that very few own and become a trendsetter, this is a watch that will for sure become more popular over time. Glad we are the first ones to bring you this detailed review with live pictures.  

Sticker Price $3,500 USD. For more info on Giuliano Mazzuoli click here.  

Posted on October 18, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Giuliano Mazzuoli and tagged Giuliano Mazzuoli Manometro Posts 2013.

Insider: Romain Jerome Steampunk Black Chrono Titanic DNA. A Watch Made Out of History.

Founded in 2004 in Geneva, Romain Jerome has quickly become renowned for its unique concept, “DNA of famous legends”. Romain Jerome allows its customers to own a part of history by creating highly emotional timepieces and accessories inspired by and incorporating the DNA of a contemporary legend. To commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Titanic, Romain Jerome released a limited edition of 2,012 pieces of the Steampunk Black Chrono and a 100 pieces of the Steampunk Black Chrono 100th Anniversary. The main difference between the two is the rusted propeller at 6 o'clock on the 100th anniversary model.

The Romain Jerome Steampunk Black Chrono Titanic-DNA ref. RJ.T.CH.SP.002.01 is another creation made out of the remains of the Titanic. The black PVD case measuring 50mm in diameter is massive and is fitted with an oxidized and stabilized steel bezel stemming from the extraordinary fusion between the metal of the legendary Titanic wreck lying 3,840 meters below the sea and the metal provided by the Harland & Wolff shipyard in Belfast where the ship was built a century ago. This bezel is held firmly in place by four steel black PVD-coated 'claws' and hex screws. 

The skeletonized dial features the iconic 'XII' Roman numeral of the Titanic-DNA collection in ruthenium with a raw finish. The dial features a 30-minute chrono register at 3 and running seconds at 9 o'clock. A propeller recalling the majestic propellers of the Titanic is located at 6 o'clock. The propeller rotates as the rotor on the back winds the movement. This is a very clever touch that makes this timepiece even more unique. Additionally, four pistons are located at 10, 8, 4 and 2 o'clock symbolizing the brand's 'X' motif. To round out the intricate look of the dial, the satin-brushed hour and minute hands were designed resembling the Titanic's anchor. Overall, the dial seems slightly busy but extremely interesting.

The crown and pushers are very nicely designed and both are very easy to use. The winding crown is fitted with a rubber ring to ease its use and features a hex shaped end perfectly matching the hex screws on the dial and on the 'claws' around the bezel.

The beating heart inside this watch is the automatic calibre RJ001-CS composed of 300 parts, 39 jewels and that provides a power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound. The calibre is perfectly protected up to a depth of 30 meters with a solid screw-fastened case back featuring a beautiful propeller. 

The Steampunk Black Chrono is fitted with a very comfortable black rubber strap with deployant buckle. A hornback crocodile strap is also available if you prefer a more elegant look; however, we really think that this watch looks perfect on a rubber strap as it has a very rugged and sporty character. The strap features the RJ logo and it is fastened to the lugs by hex screws. The deployant buckle is fitted with a small push button on the clasp for quick-release.   

The watch wears almost true to its size and perhaps a little bit smaller. The watch does sit high on the wrist and its quite hard to fit it under a shirt cuff. Regardless, this is a very comfortable watch with fascinating wrist presence. If you like to wear timepieces that include remains of historical legends, this watch fits the bill. 

Sticker Price $18,000 USD. For more info on Romain Jerome click here. 

Posted on October 16, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Other Brands, Romain Jerome and tagged Romain Jerome Steampunk Black Chrono Titanic DNA Romain Jerome Steampunk Black Chrono Titanic-DNA ref. RJ.T.CH.SP.002.01 Posts 2013.

News: Richard Mille Introduces the RM055 Bubba Watson Limited Edition for the Americas. 30-Pieces Available of Each Red Drive and White Drive.

Press Release

Richard Mille expands his line of watches created in collaboration with Bubba Watson, the PGA golfer with the longest drive on the tour, with the introduction of two new limited edition versions of the RM055 available exclusively in North and South America.

All of the previous watches created with Bubba Watson—RM038 Tourbillon Bubba Watson, RM038 Tourbillon Victory Watch, and RM055 Bubba Watson—feature stark white cases, bezels and straps. The new limited editions take a 180-degree turn, and are recognizable for their all-black cases and straps with few, bright details. A red flange forms a colorful frame around the skeletonized manual-wound movement of the RM055 Bubba Watson Red Drive limited edition, while a white flange provides a halo around the RM055 Bubba Watson White Drive limited edition’s movement.

Both timepieces feature a case made from black rubberized grade-5 titanium, and a bezel constructed from black ceramic. A black DLC titanium and rubber crown, black rubber strap and black PVD- and Titalyt-treated movement complete the stealth look of the watches. Inside the case of each RM055 beats the caliber RMUL2, which is capable of withstanding accelerations of over 500 Gs, allowing it to perform on the wrist of a golfer with a massive drive.

The movement is equipped with a variable-inertia balance wheel, which ensures reliability in the event of impacts and during assembly and dismantling, thus improving the long-term accuracy of the timepiece. The regulator index is eliminated, and a more accurate and repeatable inertia adjustment is possible thanks to four small adjustable weights located directly on the balance wheel. The double barrel mechanism helps to improve and equalize long-term torque stability: This is achieved by dispersing the stored energy within two winding barrels, equalizing torque as well as reducing pressure and friction on the bearings and pivots, resulting in improved long-term performance. The distinct construction of the RM055’s case is designed to meet the demanding requirements of sportsmen. The case middle and back are in grade 5 titanium with a protective black rubber casing. This rubber is injected at high pressure around the titanium components, thus insulating the movement from all vibrations. This special surface treatment also makes the watch very comfortable to wear.
 
Richard Mille will produce 30 examples of the RM055 Bubba Watson Red Drive and 30 examples of the RM055 Bubba Watson White Drive. The limited editions are available at authorized Richard Mille retailers in North and South America, as well as the Richard Mille boutiques in Beverly Hills and Las Vegas.

Sticker Price $115,000 USD. For more info on Richard Mille click here.  

Posted on October 16, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Richard Mille, News and tagged Richard Mille RM055 Bubba Watson Limited Edition Richard Mille Bubba Watson Red Driver Richard Mille Bubba Watson White Driver Richard Mille Bubba Watson.

Insider: Greubel Forsey GMT. Taking Horology to the Next Level.

The Greubel Forsey GMT is one of the most fascinating worldtimer complications we have ever reviewed. This fascinating watch created by Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, founders of Greubel Forsey will leave you in awe. Last week, we were able to peruse the watch and meet with Stephen Forsey who explained in detail how this fascinating complication works. 

Robert Greubel —a former IWC employee that worked on their Grand Complication Project and prototypist for complications at Renaud & Papi— and Stephen Forsey have been working together for nearly 20 years. In 1992, Stephen met Robert at Renaud & Papi and in 2001 they co-founded 'Complitime', a company focused on developing and crafting complicated movements for prestigious brands.

In 2004, Robert and Stephen unveiled 'Greubel Forsey' and stunned watch collectors with their innovative Double Tourbillon 30°. The GMT we are reviewing here is no exception as Greubel Forsey continues to take horology to the next level.

This GMT complication, available in rose gold or white gold, features a second time zone indication complemented by a three-dimensional terrestrial globe providing an intuitive picture of time all over the world in a distinctive asymmetrical case measuring  43.5 mm in diameter and 16.14 mm in thickness. A dual-function pusher located on the left caseband —at what would be the 10 o'clock position— with GMT engraved on it, allows for quick setting of the second time zone that is indicated on a small register at 10 o'clock as well as adjustment of the rotating globe that is synchronized with a cities disc on the back of the watch. The dial features a 72-hour power reserve indicator at 2 o'clock right underneath the seconds register. The local time is shown on the off-centered gold frosted anthracite treated dial at 12 o'clock. The sapphire crystal opening on the caseband at 7 o'clock allows for full view of the delicately finished terrestrial globe and to allow for light to go in which indicates those areas of the world where it is daytime. The terrestrial globe makes one complete rotation every 24 hours anticlockwise —the Earth’s natural rotational direction viewed from North pole— and the position of the continents can be easily cross-referenced with the time on the equatorial chapter ring which is marked with 24 time zones and day/night indication. The night-time hemisphere —18:00 to 6:00— is indicated by a blackened half of the ring around the globe, while the daytime hemisphere —6:00 to 18:00— is indicated by a whitened portion. Midnight is indicated in red while noon is in yellow.

The 25° inclined Tourbillon '24 Secondes' cage at 5 o'clock is one of Greubel Forsey’s major patented inventions. The single inclined tourbillon cage undergoes rapidly changing positions with a high angular velocity, thus minimizing the effects of gravity on the regulating organ and maximizing timekeeping accuracy. 

Now, let's talk about the back of the watch. As fascinating as the front, the back features a worldtimer disc with 24 cities that eases the setting of the globe and also provides the traditional worldtimer way of reading time in multiple timezones. As the cities disc rotates, so does the terrestrial globe to perfectly show night and day areas of the earth. The disc is also fitted with a central indicator for Summer Time a.k.a. Daylight Savings Time. Those cities not using DST are on a dark background and time is read on the outer chapter ring. It is worth mentioning that the anti-reflective coating treatment on the sapphire crystal of the display case back makes the cities disc appear grayish; however, the disc is made of sapphire crystal and the cities are in black and white as the last picture clearly shows it.

The back also features a golden gear with a beautiful windrose serving as a useful visual reference for midday. The beating heart inside this watch is the manual wound calibre GF05 decorated with nickel silver frosted bridges and plates, blued screws and a small opening where the efficient spherical differential can be admired. This calibre is composed of 443 parts, 50 jewels and two co-axial series-coupled fast rotating barrels. 

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The caseband is matte finished with alternating polished areas around the lugs and with polished edges on the bezel and the case back. A nice contrasting touch to the beautifully engraved black lacquered winding crown.  

This fascinating piece of horology is fitted with a beautiful and very comfortable blue crocodile strap with deployant buckle. The strap is extremely elegant and nicely handcrafted.

Opposed to the thick construction of this watch, it does not sit high on the wrist and is extremely comfortable wearing true to its diameter. If you are ready to own one of the masterpieces of modern horology, look no further. This is a real GMT watch that very few will be able to own. Please enjoy the video at the bottom of the post where Robert and Stephen clearly explain how this fascinating timepiece works. 

Sticker Price $595,000 USD. For more info on Greubel Forsey click here.  

Posted on October 14, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Greubel Forsey and tagged Greubel Forsey GMT Stephen Forsey Robert Greubel Renaud & Papi Calibre GF05 Posts 2013 2013.

Experience: McLaren Chicago Grand Opening Party. An Evening of Exotic Cars and Watches.

Last Thursday October 10, 2013 we were invited to an exclusive party at the new McLaren dealership here in Chicago. We were pleasantly surprised to see our friends from Geneva Seal at the event with a nice assortment of timepieces on display. Their showcases included timepieces from Bell & Ross, Urwerk, Custos, Franck Muller, Richard Mille, Audemars Piguet, Blancpain and Roger Dubuis amongst others. Some of the timepieces on display that caught our attention include a Roger Dubuis Double Tourbillon, an iced out Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore, an Urwerk UR-103 and a Richard Mille RM016. A great selection of Blancpain timepieces was also being displayed.

Our host Rob Mancuso —owner of McLaren Chicago DBA Mancuso Motorsports—  was nothing but great and he made sure everyone had a fantastic time. Rob is an institution when it comes to exotic cars in Chicago and the Midwest region of the U.S. In addition to this fascinating McLaren dealership, the Mancusos are also owners of LFSC Motorsports —Lake Forest Sportscars— a must see dealership when it comes to racing cars, Aston Martins, Maseratis, Ferraris, Lotus, Bentleys and other fancies that you can think of.

In summary, this was a fascinating evening filled with watchlifestylers, good wine and food and two of our favorite things in the world in the same place, watches and cars. Could we've asked for anything more?  

For more info on McLaren Chicago click here   and for Lake Forest SportsCars here. 

Posted on October 13, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Automobiles, Events and tagged Mancuso McLaren Chicago Downtown McLaren Chicago Geneva Seal Richard Mille RM016 Custos Franck Muller Urwerk UR-103 Blancpain Bell & Ross.

Experience: Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora with an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Forged Carbon Diver.

For the watchlifestyler craving an island hideaway, we invite you to experience this wonderful trip to the Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora with us. Adventure, luxury, and the warmth of the Polynesian people await you. Getting to Tahiti requires an 8-hour flight from LAX via Air Tahiti Nui in an exceptionally clean and tidy aircraft with turquoise blue accents, reminiscent of the waters that you will soon encounter and that await you. With world-class service in both Business and Economy class, the journey across the Pacific is a peaceful and easy one. After a long, restful sleep in your duvet in the comfort of Air Tahiti Nui’s Business Class, you will awake on the island of Tahiti. From there, a short 40-minute flight will transport you to Bora Bora, the beautiful and often photographed piece of heaven located in the middle of the South Pacific. The perfect companion for a trip like this is an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Forged Carbon Diver.

Upon arriving at the airport in Bora Bora, which is located on one of the many small islands known as “Motu” in Tahiti, you are welcomed by the staff from the Four Seasons right at the baggage claim area. Although the crystal clear and turquoise water mesmerizes you, you can’t help but notice the charm of the Four Seasons private vessel that will take you to the resort. Once aboard, a Tiare —a Tahitian Gardenia— scented moistened towel and refreshments welcome you as you enjoy a 20-minute boat ride to the hotel.

Upon check in, you are greeted with a small mango smoothie and a warm “la Orana” which is “Hello” in the Tahitian language. You are then driven in a golf cart to your private bungalow. The Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora is a hotel comprised of 100 private bungalows. These picturesque, over-the-water huts —1,100 sq. ft.— that are often seen on postcards and travel magazines are just amazing. The property itself has its own mini lagoons and inlets which are full of sea life and a perfect snorkeling option for those that don't want to go into the open waters.

Each bungalow features a living room, a central bathroom and a bedroom all separated by sliding doors. The outdoor deck has a dining area and each bungalow has a private dock and sunbathing space. With private amenities like these, you may never have to find your way to the beautiful infinity pool or the white sand beach. All you have to do is change into your Vilebrequins —or wear nothing at all— and take a plunge off of your private dock into the crystal clear and warm waters of Bora Bora to wash the jet-lag right off.

If you aren’t up to jumping into the ocean quite yet, open up the sliding doors to the deck from your bathtub and enjoy the view as you soak with the French bubbles you found waiting for your arrival in the living room. You forget the real world as the cool breeze of the tropics refreshes and nourishes your soul. As you enjoy magnificent views of Mount Otemanu in the distance, you can’t help but to find yourself saying: “La vie est belle!” out loud as you drift into the South Pacific daydreams.

In the bathroom, you will find glass-covered cut-outs that showcase the crystal clear waters below your bungalow. These are exceptionally fun to look at in the evening when the lights below the bungalows make the water glow. The vanities and shower are stocked with L’Occitane amenities so you are as fresh as the Pacific trade winds that cool you down. Each bungalow also has a beach bag and two pairs of beach sandals, yours to keep and take home with you as a keepsake from the piece of Heaven you enjoyed. The resort grounds feature four places to eat and drink. Arii Moana serves as the main dining restaurant at the resort and Tere Nui is your breakfast and lunch area.

The Sunset Bar and Fare Hoa are your more casual, beachside places to eat and drink. Among them, the Sunset Bar is the place to be. With delicious sushi, Asian-inspired appetizers, the best views of Mount Otemanu, and an extensive wine and drink menu, one could hardly wait until 4:30 PM for it’s opening every evening. With a wonderful staff and seating that overlooks the water, order your favorite bottle of wine with dinner and take it back to the room if you want to enjoy a private nightcap in your bungalow. Two other more private options that should not be missed: in-bungalow dining and on-the-sand dining. When Room Service can prepare a three-course meal to be enjoyed in your bungalow, complete with linens, why not take advantage?

Another option is to upgrade your experience with your loved one with a three-course private dinner for two on the sand. The Sunset Bar staff will make sure your drinks are always full as you watch the sun setting and the stars coming out to play.

At the pool, you can lounge in many of the open cabanas. If you want to be in the sun, there are many lounge chairs that await you. The pool and Fare Hoa —the pool bar— are staffed with exceptionally friendly and helpful people who make sure you are never thirsty or hungry. If you find yourself hungry at Fare Hoa, be sure to try the “Poisson Cru”, a local favorite made from tuna that’s been marinated in lime juice and coconut milk. The flavor is extraordinary and is reminiscent of both Latin American ceviche and Hawaiian ahi poke. Let’s not forget that you also have the option of just hanging out on the beach in recliners as well.

If the surroundings and beverages haven’t quite gotten you to a state of complete serenity yet, try the complimentary yoga. At 8:15 AM, overlooking one of the hotel’s lagoons, there is a 50-minute yoga class that you can enjoy. Just come in your comfy clothes and your AP as the mats, towels and bottles of water are all setup and ready for you when you arrive. Namaste.

One activity that is not to be missed while in Bora Bora or anywhere else in Tahiti is snorkeling with sharks. Organized 'Shark and Ray Feeding' activities are all over the Society Islands and they offer an up-close and personal experience with Black Tip Reef Sharks and Lemon Sharks. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Forged Carbon Diver on the wrist was up for the task. Now, we know for sure that if the watch had come in contact with the razor sharp teeth of the shark, its ceramic bezel would've surely prevented any potential damage to it.

After being in the sun or enjoying a handful of water activities, be sure to hydrate after exiting the warm waters with an ice cold Hinano beer —the Tahitian favorite— or a sip of champagne in a coconut shell.

If you’re a watchlifestyler who fancies an upgraded South Pacific experience away from civilization, look no further than spending your suspension from reality and life in Bora Bora. Although this particular watchlifestyler was sad to leave the Pearl of the Pacific, he knew very well that this wasn't going to be his last time in the magical paradise of Bora Bora.

For more info on Audemars Piguet click here and for the Four Seasons Bora Bora here.  

Posted on October 12, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Travel and tagged Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Forged Carbon Diver Four Seasons Bora Bora.

News: Richard Mille Boutique Las Vegas Now Open. Aria Resort & Casino at City Center.

Press Release

On September 23rd, 2013 Richard Mille expanded its presence in America by opening the country’s second Richard Mille boutique: The Richard Mille Boutique Las Vegas.
 The new boutique is located within Las Vegas’ most exclusive luxury shopping venue —the Shops at Crystals— adjacent to the ARIA Resort & Casino at City Center on the world-famous Las Vegas Strip.

Upon entering the boutique, guests encounter a 7 ft. tall sculpture modeled after a Richard Mille mechanical movement. The decor of the entire space adheres to Richard Mille’s warm and functional design identity, featuring such contemporary materials as Makassar wood, steel, stone and glass. A massive carved glass sculpture in the shape of Richard Mille’s most iconic watch draws the eye to the center of the store, while high-tech anti-reflective glass showcases provide ideal settings throughout the space for each timepiece on display.

The complete collection of Richard Mille watches for men and women is presented at the new boutique, including such limited editions as the RM 27-01 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal, RM 038 Tourbillon Bubba Watson, RM 59-01 Tourbillon Yohan Blake, and RM 036 Tourbillon Jean Todt G-Sensor. Additionally, Richard Mille has created a series of one-of-a-kind RM 52-01 Tourbillon Skull Nano-Ceramic timepieces, for sale exclusively at the Las Vegas location.

The Richard Mille Boutique Las Vegas, within The Shops at Crystals, is located at 3720 South Las Vegas Boulevard, Las Vegas, Nevada, and is open Sunday through Thursday from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m., and Friday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to midnight.

For more on Richard Mille click here.

Posted on October 11, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Watch Shopping, Richard Mille, News and tagged Richard Mille Boutique Las Vegas Aria Resort & Casino City Center Richard Mille RM27-01 Rafael Nadal Limited Edition Richard Mille RM59-01 Tourbillon Yohan Blake Richard Mille RM52-01 Tourbillon Skull Nano-Ceramic Richard Mille.

Insider: Richard Mille RM27-01 Rafael Nadal Limited Edition. Light as a Feather, Perfect as Perfect Gets.

Not often does one get to peruse such an amazing example of 'haute horlogerie' and a watch that costs as much as a two-bedroom condo in the River North neighborhood of Chicago. Holding this watch and photographing it gave us an adrenaline rush like no other watch we have perused or reviewed. Unlike the rest of the content around the web, our live pictures depict what the watch looks like in person. The stock images you see everywhere really have nothing to do with the watch in real life.

The Richard Mille RM27-01 Limited Edition Rafael Nadal is not only perfection but the lightest mechanical watch in the world. This watch is available in a limited edition of only 50 pieces and is fitted with a manual winding tourbillon movement with hours, minutes, and 19 jewels. The 'tonneau' shaped case, measuring 45.98 mm x 38.90 mm x 10.05 mm, is made of an extremely strong anthracite polymer injected with carbon nanotubes and it features a monocoque construction for improved lightness and firmness. To the touch, the watch almost feels between a hard piece of plastic and a bar of soap. The weight of the movement is approximately 3.5 grams and when fully wound, it provides a power reserve of 45 hours.

The movement is made of titanium and Lital —a lithium alloy containing aluminum, copper, magnesium, and zirconium— which provides the mechanism with more flexibility and greater shock resistance. The skeletonized baseplate is attached to the case via four braided steel cables and suspended in the interior by pulleys to withstand accelerations of over 5,000Gs. The cables are held by a mechanism of tensioners at 3 and 9 o'clock and once the watchmaker has threaded the cables, he tensions them by rotating the central tensioner ring using a special tool. 

The watch features no dial as it is unnecessary. One can contemplate the beauty of this calibre and its tourbillon for hours while time can be told by looking at the hands with their red tips. The flange is made of aluminum with hour markers filled with luminescent material in yellow and the Richard Mille name is written in red letters with a yellow border reminiscent of the colors of the flag of Rafa Nadal's home country, Spain. The red ring on the crown rounds out the sporty look of this watch and provides exceptional contrast along with the red tips on the hands and the red on the Richard Mille writing. 

The crystal is a Grilamid TR-90 with anti-reflective coating on both sides and a thickness of 1.20mm and 4.01mm at the edges and is perfectly clear and resistant enough to protect the advanced calibre inside this timepiece.  

The Rafael Nadal Limited Edition RM27-01 is fitted with a very unique nylon strap lined with a rubber composite that is fitted with a velcro fastener on the 6 o'clock side. The strap seems very comfortable just like on any other Richard Mille watch.

In summary, this timepiece is not only very unique but a true example of 'haute horlogerie' and extreme watchmaking. Right when we put our hands on this timepiece, we knew why it costs as much as it does. It's almost unfathomable that such a lightweight timepiece —weighing approximately 15 grams in total— could hold such tremendous horological advancements inside and have such a steep price tag. Now, if you have the money to buy one, all we can say is 'just do it'.  This timepiece is like nothing else you'll ever see.

Sticker Price $690,000 USD. For more info on Richard Mille click here.

Posted on October 10, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Richard Mille and tagged Richard Mille Rafa Nadal Richard Mille RM27-01 Rafael Nadal Limited Edition Gliramid 2013.

News: Richard Mille Unveils New Material in Watchmaking. NTPT Carbon To Be Utilized on the RM011.

Press Release

This fall, Richard Mille announces a brand new material to watchmaking named NTPT® —North Thin Ply Technology— carbon to create the first RM011 NTPT® carbon case. Richard Mille will soon unveil a version of its popular RM011 Automatic Flyback Chronograph in an entirely new case using this material.

Originally developed for the sails of racing yachts, NTPT® carbon has quickly become a must-have material in nautical circles. Sails manufactured from this substance are highly resistant and light, and have thus enabled the giants of the seas to claim the finishing lines of the world’s greatest regattas. NTPT® carbon, which has become a reference in composite materials, has been used for Formula 1 car chassis for the last two seasons, and in aeronautics for the fuselage of the future Solar Impulse 2 aircraft. NTPT® carbon is an exclusive material with a unique appearance. Its remarkable surface displays extremely regular undulations, as NTPT® carbon is composed of multiple layers of parallel filaments obtained by dividing carbon fibers. These layers, with a maximum thickness of 30 microns, are impregnated with resin then woven on a special machine that modifies the direction of the weft by 45° between layers, creating this distinctive visual effect that is reminiscent of precious wood. Heated to 120°C at a pressure of 6 bars, the NTPT® is then ready to be processed on a CNC machine in Richard Mille’s Proart case factory.
 
When compared to composite materials, whose exceptional physical properties are already well known, NTPT® carbon improves the rate of occurrence of breaking stresses by 25% and of micro-cracks by 200%. The NTPT® fully protects the RMAC1 automatic caliber, which is recognizable by its large date at 12 o’clock, its month display at 4 o’clock and its flyback chronograph. The movement, made entirely of titanium, has a 55-hour power reserve provided by its double-barrel system wound by a variable geometry rotor.

The new RM 011 Carbon NTPT® introduces innovative technical solutions that are essential to modern watchmaking. This new material has never been used in watchmaking before.

For more info on Richard Mille click here.  

Posted on October 10, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Richard Mille, News and tagged Richard Mille New NTPT Carbon Case Richard Mille Unveils New Material Richard Mille NTPT Carbon Richard Mille Calibre RMAC1 Richard Mille Proart Case Factory Richard Mille RM011 Flyback Chronograph 2013.

Experience: Vacheron Constantin at the SIAR Mexico 2013. A Fascinating Exhibit with a Watchmaker on Duty.

This time we are bringing you Vacheron Constantin's exhibit at the SIAR —Salón Internacional de Alta Relojería—2013 in Mexico City this past week. This exhibit not only showcased some of the most relevant pieces across Vacheron's different collections, but it also included a few pieces from their museum and a very friendly watchmaker on duty that was working on different movements including a perpetual calendar, a tourbillon and a ultra thin skeleton.

The highlight of this exhibit was the 'Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time' Unique Piece —on display— that sold for $80,000 during the Sotheby's auction that took place on October 1 to benefit the INAH —Mexico's national institute of anthropology and history. This worldtimer complication a.k.a. 'Patrimony Traditionnelle Heures du Monde' is a fascinating timepiece that not only provides the traditional 24 cities/timezones but also 13 special timezones with timezone variations of half hour to a quarter hour.

Additionally, while we were there, we were fortunate enough to run into Mr. Rudolf Knoblauch, Switzerland's ambassador in Mexico. Very Nice meeting you Mr. Knoblauch.

Now, enjoy the pictures and as usual pretend you were there with us. 

For more information on Vacheron Constantin click here.  

Posted on October 9, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Events, Vacheron Constantin and tagged Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Heures du Monde Vacheron Constantin Vacheron Constantin SIAR Mexico 2013 Rudolf Knoblauch Swiss Ambassador in Mexico 2013.

Macros: Glashütte Original Senator Observer. A Fascinating Example of German Watchmaking.

The Glashütte Original Senator Observer ref. 100-14-05-02-04 is one of the most classic looking timepieces from this manufacture from Saxony, Germany. The Senator Observer is a watch that takes its inspiration from the observation watches made at Julius Assmann's Glashütte atelier. This stainless steel watch is fitted with a case measuring 44mm in diameter, a display case back and a lacquered silver grained dial with black Arabic numerals featuring a running seconds register at 9, power reserve indicator at 3 and the iconic Glashütte Original Panorama date aperture at 6 o'clock. To complete the elegant look of this timepiece, the watch is fitted with blue anodized hands that provide the perfect contrast against the off-white looking dial and a perfect match to the black alligator strap with deployant buckle.

The watch is powered by the Glashütte Original automatic calibre 100-14 that beats at 28,800 vph and that provides a power reserve of 55 hours when fully wound. The calibre is fully visible via the display case back.  

Now it's time to enjoy the eye candy! 

Sticker Price $11,800 USD. For more info on Glashütte Original click here.  

Posted on October 8, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Glashütte Original and tagged Glashütte Original Senator Observer ref. 100-14-05-02-04 Saxony Germany German Watchmaking Julius Assmann Posts 2013.

Insider: Breguet Marine Royale ref. 5847. A Diver's Watch with Alarm Mechanism.

The Breguet Marine Royale ref. 5847BR/Z2/5ZV is a massive timepiece with an 18K rose gold case featuring an automatic movement with an alarm mechanism and a sporty rubber strap. The case measuring 45mm in diameter and 17.45mm in thickness is very solid, masculine and crafted like a tank. The caseband is engraved with the traditional Breguet fluting and the watch is fitted with a very solid and thick turning bezel with luminous mark at 12 and security wave shaped ratchet at 3 o'clock right between the winding crown located at 2 and the alarm setting crown —fitted with a black rubber ring— at 4 o'clock. The alarm on/off push-piece is located at 8 o'clock in the shape of a wave, with rubber casing and fluting.

The dial appears to look like a ruthenium dial and it features a beautifully done rose engine wave 'guilloché' pattern at the center and the outer rim, applied Roman numerals chapter ring in rose gold, luminous dots minute chapter on the outer rim of the dial, blue dot alarm setting chapter ring on center of dial, blue arrow-head alarm hand,  alarm on/off indicator at 12 with a musical note in blue, blue and white alarm power reserve indicator at 10 and a date aperture at 6 o'clock with black calendar disc and white font. The dial is completed by the Breguet style hands with applied luminova. A downside of the dial is that the luminova is not very powerful.

This beautiful timepiece is powered by the automatic Breguet calibre 519 R that beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph with 36 jewels and that provides a power reserve of 45 hours when fully wound. This calibre is one of the most beautiful movements we've seen lately and it is fully visible via the display case back. Regardless of its display case back, this watch is waterproof rated to a depth of 300 meters. Additionally the finish of the case back is just spectacular and exceptionally executed. The third picture shows the alarm mechanism in action.

The Breguet Marine Royal ref. 5847 is fitted with a nice and thick rubber strap with pyramidal square pattern near the lugs and wave pattern on the inside with Marine Royal in blue —a very nice and unique touch. The strap comes fitted with a double-folding clasp with easy adjustment pin buckle in rose gold and with two rose gold fasteners shaped as waves. 

In summary, this is a fascinating sports watch that is very solid, large and comfortable on the wrist. The strap wears like a glove and the alarm complication is just fascinating. The watch wears way larger than its actual size on a 7-7.25" wrist and almost like a 50mm timepiece —nothing wrong as long as you like to wear big watches. This watch is also available in white gold, white gold with black dial and rose gold with rose gold dial.   

Sticker Price $46,300 USD. For more info on Breguet click here.  

Posted on October 3, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Breguet and tagged Breguet Marine Royale ref. 5847BR/Z2/5ZV Breguet Marine Royale with Alarm Mechanism Breguet ref. 5847 Posts 2013 2013.

Experience: SIAR Mexico 2013. The Fascinating and Sleek Audemars Piguet Suite.

We are continuing our live reporting straight from Mexico City bringing you these images of the Audemars Piguet suite at the Four Seasons Hotel. Opposed to Baselworld or the SIHH, the brands are located within small rooms in a very private setting. Of all booths at the SIAR Mexico 2013, the Audemars Piguet suite is perhaps the most fascinating one and a true treat to the eyes. The design is modern, sleek and minimalist replicating the new look and feel of their boutiques. The suite is composed of three rooms fully decorated with wood, Mies Van der Rohe Barcelona chairs, Hans J. Wegner chairs and the most beautiful screens with images from the Vallée de Joux and the manufacture. Every corner is filled with the Audemars Piguet essence and portraying the values of this haute horlogerie manufacture.

For more info on Audemars Piguet click here.

Posted on October 2, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under Audemars Piguet, Events and tagged SIAR 2013 Mexico Audemars Piguet Suite Posts 2013 2013.

Experience: SIAR Mexico 2013. First Day Live from Mexico City.

As promised, we are reporting live from Mexico City with some highlights of our first day at the SIAR —Salón Intenacional Alta Relojería— 2013. After an exciting press conference with remarks from Carlos Alonso —General Director of the SIAR—, more than twenty CEOs from some of the top manufactures and top personalities of the industry including Mademoiselle Jasmine Audemars, Olivier Audemars, Pascal Ravessoud from the 'Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie' and the Swiss ambassador in Mexico, we can say that our day started on a great note.

These images will show you a little bit of what we experienced today including watchmakers on duty, vintage museum pieces, a wide array of haute horlogerie brands and some amazing caviar and fresh truffle tasting with plenty of Moët & Chandon to wash it down. Tight security with metal detectors, bulletproof cars and bodyguards surrounding the Four Seasons Hotel and the most affluent guests from Mexico City where present during the first day of this amazing event.

Tonight, a Vacheron Constantin 'Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time' Unique Piece —featuring a dial with green and red accents inspired by the Mexican flag— will be auctioned by Sotheby's donating all the proceeds to the 'INAH' —Mexico's national institute of anthropology and history.

By the way, we noticed after taking several pictures of our watch, that the date aperture on it was showing 31 instead of 1 as today is October 1. Perhaps it's time to add a perpetual calendar and quit worrying about adjusting the date. 

Please enjoy the eye candy and stay tuned for more updates in the next days.  

Posted on October 1, 2013 by Editor & Publisher and filed under News, Events and tagged SIAR 2013 Mexico Jasmine Audemars Olivier Audemars Four Seasons Mexico City.