Today, Linde Werdelin presents to you the Oktopus Double Date Carbon Green, a sporty and refreshing take on the Oktopus dive watch. Featuring champagne gold detailing, it revitalizes the Linde Werdelin collection of revolutionary diving timepieces for an active lifestyle. A numbered limited series of just 88 pieces has been individually crafted using 3DTP™ —Three-Dimensional Thin Ply—, the first ever carbon technology conceived for Swiss watchmaking, engineered to sculpt the iconic and angular Oktopus case by layering thin layers of carbon into a mold to give the finished product it's ultra-unique appearance with those horizontal lines, just like the rings inside a tree trunk.
Posts filed under Other Brands
Insider: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain Boutique Edition. The Watch that Made Us Break a Promise.
They say that one of the principles of good journalism is to be objective and neutral about what or who you write about. Considering the circumstances between the brand F.P. Journe and our publication, we will do our best to keep this post as objective and neutral as possible. Sometimes, no matter how nice you are to people and how hard you work, you still run into arrogant executives in the watch industry that disrespect you or that think that because they work for a very special brand, you as a watch publication are obliged to take their attitude and still write about their watches.
Back in 2013 during the SIAR, we promised the F.P. Journe brand that we would never write about them as long as we owned this website. Today, we are breaking this promise just to pamper a very close and dear friend of ours that recently acquired the only F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain Boutique Edition ref. CS that has made it to the American continent. Not only our friend wanted for us to do a special review of this special timepiece that he now owns, but we also felt that this watch is well worth talking about.
Insider: Linde Werdelin SpidoLite II Titanium Red. Stunning Craftsmanship with Great Design.
Even though most of you are very familiar with Linde Werdelin, we will share some background information about this amazing manufacture for those watchlifestylers that are still not quite familiar with it.
Linde Werdelin was founded eleven years ago in 2002 by two fine Danish gentlemen. The name comes from its founders Morten Linde and Jorn Werdelin. Since its conception, Linde Werdelin has focused on creating some of the most unique and fascinating timepieces with very avant-garde Danish design and fully Swiss made.
Linde Werdelin also produces digital instruments for skiing —the Rock— and diving —the Reef— that can be clipped to the top of their mechanical watches. Their watches are designed to carry the Reef or the Rock and they are made in very limited quantities making them super exclusive.
News: Presenting the Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater Openwork. The Manufacture Does it Again with a Half a Million USD Timepiece.
In 2012, The Bird Repeater featured two blue tits and their young birds close to the heart of the company’s founder Pierre Jaquet-Droz. This remarkable model reaffirmed the virtuoso expertise of Jaquet Droz, passed down from the 18th century and realized here in miniature. The following year, The Charming Bird watch marked the brand’s 275th anniversary with a new interpretation of the bird in an ultra-modern decorative setting and this time singing.
Now, the story continues with a previously unseen version of The Bird Repeater in a more streamlined, contemporary-looking model that has nonetheless retained intact the animated features that made it a success: a duo of blue tit birds feeding their fledglings, the spreading wings, the tumbling waterfall and the hatching egg.
Photo Gallery: Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Limited Edition. Only 188 Pieces of Pure Beauty.
The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon ref. 00.10918.03.33.01 is definitely one of the most beautiful and well balanced point of entry level tourbillons in the market. While this watch is not fitted with a fully in-house calibre, its 35 jewel manual wound movement with tourbillon —calibre CFB T1001— is exceptionally finished and equipped with a nice 70-hour power reserve indicator, 24-hour indicator and peripheral date indicator. Fitted with a nicely finished 18K rose gold case and with a black sunburst or silvery white dial, this limited edition timepiece delivers in terms of design, craftsmanship and looks.
Insider: Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Green. A Watch With a Forged Carbon Outer Case at its Finest.
Earlier this year at Baselworld 2014, Linde Werdelin released three novelties —we have already reviewed the SpidoSpeed RoseGold Black here and the Oktopus MoonLite here. This time we are presenting you our in-depth review of the third novelty presented by Linde Werdelin. We are talking about the SpidoSpeed Green that showcases skeletonization not only throughout the outer case as with previous iterations in the Spido family, but also into the dial and movement.
The new Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Green is fitted with a stylish black forged carbon outer case measuring 44 mm x 46 mm x 15mm that is complimented by other smaller details making this timepiece truly unique. Frankly, after perusing this watch, we can say that the quality of the forged carbon outer case is almost at the level of forged carbon cases from Audemars Piguet which is known as the pioneer and master of forged carbon application in the watch industry.
News: Presenting the New Maîtres du Temps Chapter Two Classique. Celebrating its 5th Anniversary.
On the occasion of the 5th Anniversary of the launch of the Chapter Two Original, Maîtres du Temps - Atelier d’Horlogerie is proud to present the new Chapter Two Classique in red gold and white gold. This new model underlines even stronger the architectural aspect of the collection through its Art Deco inspired dial on which the bold indices majestically indicate the hours. The Chapter Two collection features an instantaneous triple calendar displayed in large format thanks to the innovative high precision cylinders that in fact makes it the most legible mechanical calendar wristwatch in the world. Its outstanding movement is imbedded in a shaped case that expresses the strength and character of this collection.
Insider: JEANRICHARD Terrascope Aluminum. A Fun Timepiece in the Three Primary Colors.
The JEANRICHARD Terrascope ref. 60500-10-702-FK4A released earlier this year during Baselworld 2014, is as colorful as any luxurious timepiece gets. This is not a bumble bee, nor a volcano —perhaps some of the most colorful timepieces out there—, this is a beautifully finished timepiece that might be perceived as too loud and bright by a few, but for others quite fun and unique looking. The new JEANRICHARD Terrascope Aluminum features an ultra colorful aluminum case —not as light as many would imagine weighing 108 grams— in blue, red and green measuring 44 mm in diameter with the unmistakeable vertical satin brushed finish of the JEANRICHARD collections. Literally, a perfect interpretation of the three primary colors, all rounded up by a beautiful white dial with blued applied markers with orange luminescent material and a blue rubber strap.
Insider: Bremont Wright Flyer Limited Edition. While Not Fitted with an In-House Movement it is Still Quite Impressive.
Yesterday, we had the pleasure of meeting with Nick English and Michael Pearson from Bremont here in Chicago. After a strong wave of negative reactions from watch collectors regarding the Bremont calibre BWC/01 —the calibre that powers the just launched Bremont Wright Flyer Limited Edition and that was called an in-house movement on the press release we all watch publications received—, Nick English —co-founder of Bremont— spent some time explaining that while this movement is not an in-house movement it really feels in-house to them. Terminology and semantics aside, the newly launched Bremont Wright Flyer Limited Edition is a very nice watch.
News: Presenting the Bremont Wright Flyer Limited Edition. 450 Pieces Across Three Different Models.
Bremont is honored to announce the unveiling of the Limited Edition Bremont Wright Flyer. This new timepiece will feature some of the original fabric used on the 1903 Wright Flyer aircraft. Just as significantly, it showcases Bremont’s first ever in-house movement, the automatic calibre BWC/01, designed and developed in Britain. Many of its constituent parts have also been crafted at the company’s workshops in Henleyon-Thames. The 25 jewel, 33.4mm movement features a 50+ hour power reserve, Glucydur balance and a hairspring adjusted via a micro-metric screw. Utterly reliable and extremely robust, the BWC/01 is elegant and beautifully finished, with a central hour and minute hand and a running seconds hand at 9 o’clock.
News: Presenting the New Christophe Claret X-TREM-1 Chocolate. Hours and Minutes Displayed by a Magnetic System.
Christophe Claret is pleased to present X-TREM-1 Chocolate, featuring a red gold and grade 5 titanium case treated with chocolate-color PVD, plus an alligator-skin strap of the same brown hue. This timepiece is as visually striking as it is technically innovative. Christophe Claret has always focused on developing original timepieces incorporating the latest technological innovations. The brand is known for pushing the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking and straying away from the beaten horological path. First presented in 2012, X-TREM-1 is a testament to this endeavor and represents a totally new way of telling the time.
X-TREM-1 displays hour and minutes by means of two tiny hollowed steel spheres isolated within sapphire tubes on both sides of the caseband.
Insider: Vulcain Aviator Instrument Chronograph Sport Automatic. A Great Pilot's Watch for the Price.
The story of Vulcain began in 1858, in the early days of the Swiss watch industry. This brand from Le Locle has been making its mark for over 150 years and it was in 1947 that it entered the annals of horology thanks to its Cricket calibre, the first ever truly functional mechanical alarm watch movement, from that point on, successive American presidents starting with Harry S. Truman were to adopt it and thereby earn the Cricket watch its enduring nickname as 'The Presidents’ Watch'. A century and a half of watchmaking passion, as well as 150 years of creation, innovation and expertise patiently acquired and now devoted to defending the demanding values of Haute Horlogerie. Founded in 1858, the workshop of the Ditisheim brothers – which was to give rise to the Vulcain brand – immediately earned itself an enviable reputation through its complication watches, which received awards at several World Fairs. But the technical qualities of Vulcain watches also appealed to explorers and adventurers. From the 1950s onwards, the brand in Le Locle was to partner famous mountaineering and maritime expeditions.
The Vulcain Aviator Instrument Chronograph ref. 590163A17.BFC006 presented last month at Baselworld 2014, features a stainless steel case measuring 44.60 mm in diameter and 15.40 mm in thickness. The case is very robust, very well crafted and it features a domed sapphire crystal that gives the watch somewhat of a vintage inspired look. This new watch features a 12-hour chronograph and is available in six dial color variations including the dark grey featured on this review, blue, off-white, silvered, black and chocolate brown. The watch is fitted with a dark grey leather strap with red contrast stitching and with a stainless steel folding clasp. The texture of the strap is almost like that of nubuck, quite thick and not very supple.
The beautiful sunburst dark grey dial on this watch features a very interesting running seconds aperture at 9 o'clock. This horizontal double aperture shows a white disc with red bars that rotates creating an interesting visual effect and letting the wearer know that the watch is indeed running. The dial also features white Arabic numerals, a flange with minutes in 10-minute increments, a 30-minute chrono register at 3 and a 12-hour chrono register with built-in date aperture at 6 o'clock. In order to provide good readability of the chronograph, all of its hands are red, while the hour/minute hands of the watch are silver satin-finished with white luminescent material and shaped just as those in classic vintage pilot watches. Overall the design works well, without being extremely busy and the watch has a great aviator look.
One peculiarity of this new timepiece, is that the chrono pusher at 2 o'clock may come with the top all rhodium plated, blue, black or red, depending on your dial choice. The blue finish is reserved for the off-white dial, while the red one is only available on the model featured here. The pusher at 2 o'clock is very smooth when pressed to activate the chronograph and the reset pusher at 4 o'clock is rectangular shaped and fluted on its end to ensure a good grip.
The beating heart inside this watch is the automatic Vulcain calibre V-59 composed of 247 parts, 27 jewels, a skeletonized rotor and nickel coated. The calibre is fully visible via the display case back and it provides a power reserve of 48 hours when fully wound while beating at a frequency of 28,800 vph. For a brand like Vulcain, we would've expected a nicer looking movement.
On the wrist, the watch wears more like a 46 mm watch with nice aviation like wrist presence. The red contrast stitching on the strap plays very nicely with the other red elements in this watch, making it look extremely sporty. For the price, you get a very unique looking timepiece with a nice and functional 12-hour chronograph and with a great name behind it.
Sticker Price $4,350 USD. For more info on Vulcain click here.
Insider: Valbray Oculus Minotaurus Red Gold. Fitted with an Obturator System and a Pinball Maze.
Valbray is one of those independent Swiss watch companies that has gone above and beyond with their watch designs and has created very unique timepieces that are quite easy to identify thanks to their revolutionary obturator system —inspired by the diaphragm shutter in photographic cameras— that allows for the user to fully or partially close the dial with a micro-mechanism that is fitted in between the dial and the sapphire crystal. Valbray spent over two years of research and design and after tackling several challenges they finally perfected it and registered its first patent in 2010. The Valbray Oculus Minotaurus ref. VR03W featured here, not only features the revolutionary obturaror system but also a pinball tridimensional maze on its dial that gets its inspiration from the enigmatic theme of the labyrinth and the Minotaur from the Greek mythology. If you were born in the 70s, you probably had several of these pinball maze games to entertain yourself.
The obturator system is composed of 16 extra thin blades, entirely integrated in a rotating bezel measuring only 43 mm in diameter and 7 mm in width. The diaphragm opens and closes by slowly sliding the blades on each other on a constant and regular circular shape. Protected by three layers of ultra technical coating, they maintain their elasticity and color and resistance to rubbing. At the maximum aperture of the bezel, the blades completely disappear, releasing a different underlying dial measuring 30 mm in diameter, while at the minimum aperture, only the central pinion and the hands are visible right above the diaphragm when fully closed. The bezel is waterproof and requires no button or bar to be operated. The entire system is thoroughly hidden, completely independent of the watch movement and is activated manually by turning the bidirectional bezel. This innovative system makes the Valbray timepieces interactive and intriguing at the same time.
The Valbray Oculus Minotaurus is fitted with a very generous black PVD stainless steel case with 18K 5N Red gold bezel —bezel also available in white gold— measuring 43 mm in diameter and featuring alternating satin-brushed finished and highly polished areas. The dial on this new timepiece released at Baselworld 2014 features a very interesting multilayer design fitted with a tridimensional pinball maze. The maze is finished in matte gold and accentuated by the white ceramic pinball, the skeletonized hour and minute hands with black tips and a highly contrasting red seconds hand. Now, for those of you concerned with the quality of the timepiece per the look of the hands in these pictures, it is important to mention that we photographed a prototype and not the final watch. Based on other Valbray timepieces we have perused in the past, we are confident that the final product will be immaculately finished. The case back is finely engraved with the iconic Minotaur and the limited edition information, which in this case is limited to 77 pieces.
Now, let's share some interesting Greek mythology for those of you wondering what the maze has to do with the Minotaur. Well, according to the legend, the maze of Knossos was built by the King Minos of Crete to imprison the Minotaur —a fabulous monster with the body of a man and the head of a bull. Once construction has been completed, the building was such a tangle of streets, theaters and galleries, that even his engineer Daedalus and his son Icarus found themselves prisoners into the inside. Each year, the city of Athens, under the rules of Minos, had to offer in sacrifice seven Athenians boys and seven girls to the Minotaur, who was eating humans. Until the day Theseus, son of the King of Athens, killed the Minotaur and managed to find the way out of the maze, thanks to the thread given by Arianne —the daughter of Minos—, which he used to scroll along the way. As you can see in these pictures, the level of detail and depth on the maze is remarkable.
The rotating bezel in 18K 5N Red gold is very solid and finished with a satin-brushed finish on the top and highly polished around the edges. The bezel features deep diagonal teeth making it very easy to grip and turn. The black flange around the dial features gold engraved markers that help round out the overall design of the watch in conjunction with its black PVD case. The crown is nicely finished replicating the diagonal teeth on the bezel and also finished in black PVD stainless steel.
The watch is fitted with a black alligator strap with pin buckle in black PVD stainless steel and 18K 5N Red gold insert with the Valbray logo. The strap is elegantly finished with black stitching and is also very supple and comfortable. The beating heart powering the Oculus Minotaurus is the Valbray automatic movement with 21 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound.
On the wrist, the watch wears slightly bigger than its actual size and quite comfortably. The wrist presence is extremely unique and this is a watch that for sure will get a lot of attention from other watchlifestylers. Now, if you have children, be prepared to have them ask for your watch every time you put it on so that they can entertain themselves like you used to in the old days.
Sticker Price 13,700 CHF ex VAT. For more info on Valbray click here.
Insider: Christophe Claret Maestoso. A Timepiece with Detent Escapement, Constant Force and Actual Precious Rubies on its Movement.
In the old days, watch movements were fitted with precious rubies to reduce the friction and wear on certain key metal components in them. Today, those precious rubies have been commonly replaced by manufactures by synthetic rubies that do the work, but that don't look merely as beautiful. The new Christophe Claret Maestoso ref. MTR.DTC07.000-020 presented at Baselworld 2014, is actually one of the few watches in the market that features actual precious rubies on its fascinating movement.
Insider: Konstantin Chaykin Decalogue Luah Shana. Russian Watchmaking at its Finest with a Special Jewish Focus.
Konstantin Chaykin is an independent manufacture established in Moscow, Russia lead by its founder Konstantin Chaykin, whom about 10 years ago discovered a passion for watchmaking in St. Petersburg. Konstantin began his watchmaking career repairing and restoring clocks and watches, and after finally mastering the intricacies of creating watch movements he decided to launch his own line of timepieces with unique concepts and intricate in-house movements. The watches, completely Russian made, stay true to Konstantin's ideas, beliefs and mastery in watchmaking. Today, Konstantin Chaykin runs his own manufacture and has registered over 10 patents for his innovative movements and inventions. This is a unique achievement for such a young watchmaker who is famous for the complex movements he has developed, especially for his astronomical clock ‘Resurrection’ with Easter calendar, the Lunokhod watch and the 'Carpe Diem'. Konstantin, is also the only Russian watchmaker who has become a member of the 'Academie Horlogere Des Createurs Independants'. Something very interesting about this manufacture, is their ability to create custom unique pieces on-demand, where the clients even get to participate in the development and creation of that unique timepiece.
Before we go into the details of this fascinating timepiece called 'Decalogue Luah Shana', we want to keep very clear that our publication is not associated to any specific religion, spiritual belief or creed. As we have said it before, we will continue to talk about timepieces that we feel are worth talking about, even if they are not Swiss made or if they happen to be specifically designed for the followers of an specific religion or creed. Therefore, in this instance, we will be talking about an exceptional timepiece that has been designed by Konstantin Chaykin specifically for Jewish consumers and that brings his finest Russian watchmaking to the table. May we now present you the fascinating Konstantin Chaykin Decalogue Luah Shana fitted with a movement specifically invented and created to turn the hour and minute hands counterclockwise and that was inspired by the complexity and astronomical precision of the Jewish calendar.
The Decalogue Luah Shana is the new iteration of the 'Decalogue' timepiece and it's available in stainless steel or 18K white gold fitted with a generous round case measuring 42 mm in diameter and featuring a manual-wound reverse movement system with a power reserve of 48 hours and fitted with 17 jewels. The round case is superbly finished with alternating satin-brushed and high-polished areas and is properly rounded out by the delicately finished winding crown that is just like a cherry on top of a cake. The case band features a small and discreet corrector for the moon phase at 1 o'clock and the overall look of the watch is very well balanced and extremely elegant.
This elegant watch features an ruthenium dial with two overlapping circles and three different guilloché finishes including vertical columns that are supposed to resemble the columns on the Temple of Salomon. At the top of the dial, right under the 'Clous de Paris' guilloché pattern, there is an hour/minutes off-centered subdial with applied letters from the Jewish alphabet that are meant to be read from left to right as the hands move in counterclockwise direction. Towards the center of the dial, there is a moon phase aperture and underneath it right at 6 o'clock, there is a half moon circle displaying the days of the moon phases in reverse order topped by two columns with ten Aramaic letters carefully engraved and which reproduce the two stone tablets with the Ten Commandments —Decalogue— given by God to Moses on Mount Sinai on the fiftieth day after the Exodus from Egypt.
Fitted with an elegant black alligator strap with pin buckle, the watch features a display case back that allows for full view of the beautifully finished manual-wound reverse movement featuring 'Côtes de Genève', an appliqué with Konstantin Chaykin's logo and a gorgeous blue engraved 'Star of David' —Magen David— on the ratchet wheel. The movement also shows some its jewels in gold chatons and some perlage underneath the balance wheel. Around the bottom part of the case back, one can find more Hebrew letters that are nicely engraved.
On the wrist, the watch wears slightly bigger than its actual size and with very strong wrist presence. If you are wearing this watch, regardless of your religious beliefs, be prepared to have many inquisitive watchlifestylers ask you about it. This is for sure a watch with a very nice story behind and definitely a very unique conversation timepiece.
Sticker Price 23,900 Euro for 18K White Gold, 16,500 Euro for Stainless Steel. For more info on Konstantin Chaykin click here.
Budget Watches: New Seven Friday M1 Watch. The Traveling Watch Prototype We Woke Up With and Brought to Chicago With Us.
Since today is Friday, why not post the history behind this new Seven Friday M1 watch presented at Basel a couple of weeks ago. As you probably can imagine, the parties and after-parties during the week of Baselworld can get a little intense and out of control. Even when our friends from Seven Friday didn't have a booth or pavilion at Baselworld 2014, they did throw a great party kitty-corner from the main exhibition hall at the Fair & Square Restaurant right next door to the Swissôtel and brought with them some novelties.
Seven Friday is a brand that in a little bit over a year, has quickly become a very interesting 'watch phenomena' thanks to their viral marketing efforts and their huge solid fan base on Instagram. While we are not huge Seven Friday fans because of their use of automatic Japanese Miyota movements, we do have to say that we love their designs and that we find their watches very appealing and very reasonably priced. If you want a cool, inexpensive mechanical watch, look no further.
If you follow us on Instagram, you probably have already read the crazy story behind this prototype of the new Seven Friday M1 watch we are featuring here. Now, if you don't follow us on Instagram, you then need to go there and follow us, but regardless, here's the full story for you.
Upon our arrival at the Seven Friday party during Baselworld 2014, a good friend that represents the brand in the U.S. strapped this prototype of the new Seven Friday M1 to our right wrist. After several rounds of drinks, tons of collective wristshots with our good friends from Watch-Anish, MCT Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps, SLYDE, Icebox Diamonds & Watches, Seven Friday USA and even Seven Friday Mexico —represented by 'Los Hermanos Coraje' as we like to call them—, a food feast at a delicious Indian Restaurant and a very long train ride back to Zürich, we woke up the next morning with the watch still on our wrist. Here are some pics that should sum up the crazy night.
After contacting our friend to inform him about the watch that came with us the night before, he said: "just keep it", little did he know that what we had on the wrist was the prototype for the new Seven Friday M1. A day later, as we are heading back to Chicago and we are riding the tram between terminals at Zürich's airport, we were approached by two gentleman from Singapore asking us how we had gotten the new Seven Friday M1. We shared with them the crazy story behind the watch and we proceeded to take one of our usual collective wrist shots to celebrate the encounter.
To make a long story short, we landed in Chicago with the watch still on and surprised by a voice mail from Seven Friday asking for the watch back. Finally, after posting a few pictures of the watch on our Instagram and after taking some very close and personal pictures for our readers, we shipped the prototype of the new Seven Friday M1 back to its rightful owner. These macro shots should give you an excellent idea of what this new watch looks like and what they have in store for you later this year. One thing we love about this new model is that the hours, minutes and seconds are indicated by rotating discs with their respective apertures and with no hands at all. Nicely done Seven Friday!
Lastly, here's the picture that we took of the watch inside our Porsche that ended up circling the globe around Instagram after several watch blogs reposted it. Unfortunately, the guys from Seven Friday Venezuela felt it was OK to repost our picture without giving us photo credit and created a whole mess between us and some very close friends that reposted the image without knowing it was ours. Fortunately all is good now but remember, credit to whom credit is due.
Sticker Price Approximately $1,600 USD. For more info on Seven Friday click here.
Baselworld 2014: Christophe Claret Margot. He Loves Me, He Loves Me Not on the Wrist. Live Pictures and Pricing.
Inspired by the 'He loves me, he loves me not' game of French origin played with a daisy flower —marguerite in French— and in which one person removes petals from the flower to determine whether one loves him/her or not, comes the new Christophe Claret Margot ladies watch ref. MTR.EMT17.030-050. A watch that impressed everyone at Baselworld 2014 and that truly allows the wearer to play the game with the timepiece. This new watch, is fitted with two pushers on the case band —at 2 and 4 o'clock—, allowing the wearer to play the 'He loves me, he loves me not' —effeuiller la marguerite in French— game.
To play the game, all that the wearer needs to do, is to press the pusher at 2 o'clock which activates a mechanism that removes one or two petals off of the daisy flower and then shows a phrase in French –via an aperture at the bottom of the dial— on how much or how little that person loves you. While the bottom aperture on the left side always displays the message "il m'aime" —he loves me—, the second aperture will randomly display different endings to the famous phrase such as "un peu" —a little—, "beaucoup" —a lot—, "passionnément" —passionately—, "a la folie" —madly— or even "pas du tout" —not at all. After all the petals have been removed and the love fate has been disclosed, then the wearer will press the pusher at 4 o'clock to reincorporate the petals to the flower and play again if desired. The message aperture then displays a suspension point (...). One other thing that we loved about this new timepiece is that at each press of the pusher, a distinct, crystalline chime resonates, aurally signaling the pace of the game.
The white gold palladium alloy coated case measuring 42.5 mm in diameter is set with 423 snow-set diamonds totaling approximately 3 carats. The lugs are hexagonal shaped and also diamond encrusted. The blue mother-of-pearl dial exudes romantic femininity and is delicately engraved with verses from Victor Hugo's poem Unité. Additionally, on the dial there are three pear-shaped diamonds at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock and Christophe Claret's logo on relief at 12 o'clock. A pair of gold-tipped, blued steel hands glide over the 12 white, satin-lacquered titanium petals that tightly embrace the central yellow sapphire pistil and its multi-level corolla intensifying the three-dimensionality of the dial’s landscape. To maintain the sleekness of the overall design of the case, the crown is located behind the top lug by the case back.
To make this watch even more special, the display case back reveals the beautifully finished automatic movement calibre EMT17 composed of 731 parts, 95 jewels and which provides a power reserve of 3 days when fully wound. The movement is fitted with a central skeletonized rotor that covers the whole movement and that is delicately carved with the shape of a flower and accentuated by a carrousel of eight triangular precious stones lined up with a sentiment of love engraved on the center of the rotor. Each one of these eight resplendent triangular precious stones denotes a feeling —purity, passion, joy, confidence, hope, loyalty, friendship, tenderness and purity. After the rotor spins freely and stops, each of these stones will randomly line up with a red-lacquered heart —color of the sentiments— engraved on the perimeter of the case back.
The Christophe Claret Margot is truly an amazing timepiece that will put a smile on the face of that loved one even if the message aperture shows "pas du tout" —not at all. We know for sure that after gifting her one of these watches, there will be no doubt as to whether you love her or not. The Margot is available in four different models and in a 20-piece limited edition for each of them. Only 80 lucky ladies will be able to own this amazing exceptional timepiece.
Sticker Price 198,000CHF ex VAT for White Gold or Red Gold with 423 snow-set diamonds. 278,000CHF ex VAT for the White Gold or Red Gold with 68 baguette-set diamonds. For more info on Christophe Claret click here.
Baselworld 2014: Christophe Claret Poker with Texas Hold'em on the Wrist. Live Pictures and Pricing.
After the successful launch of the Christophe Claret 21 Blackjack and the Baccara, now comes Poker, the latest addition to Christophe Claret's trilogy of gaming watches. Christophe Claret's fertile imagination has managed to devise the mechanism for this sophisticated card game and enclose it within a case just 45 mm in diameter. After a quick round of Poker with Mr. Claret, we went ahead and started taking these pictures for you.
For up to three players and the house, there are an incredible number of gameplay possibilities. Poker was actually to be the first of the gaming timepieces launched by Manufacture Claret. While the game seems simple to organize on a table, its watchmaking version is an extreme test and no technical solution had been found until Christophe Claret himself came up with the answer. While the first prototype was working in 2011, it required two years to perfect the intricate complication. Devising the gearing and bringing it all together in a mechanical movement —in other words, orchestrating a complete 52-card game following the rules of poker— is a real feat, one which offers Haute Horlogerie exciting new technical prospects. In total, Poker packs in 32,768 different combinations, i.e. 98,304 combinations for three players.
The probabilities have been calculated so that everyone has approximately the same chances of winning. Users can immerse themselves in real three-player games of the most popular
variant of poker: Texas Hold’em. As a recap of the rules, a game of Texas Hold’em starts with two closed cards being dealt to each player, i.e. visible only to the player. Five other open cards are dealt out in stages: three, known as the flop, after the first betting round; an additional card, the turn, after another betting round; and finally a last, the river. To have the best hand in Texas Hold’em poker, the player must have the best possible combination of five cards from the seven in their hand. This is how the PCK05 automatic movement came into being. This completely original automatic-winding in-house caliber comprises no fewer than 655 components, and features two mainspring barrels that provide approximately 72 hours of power. There are bound to be some late nights! But no need to worry, as well as its gaming functions, Poker has not abandoned its time display role, with two central hands providing excellent legibility.
Poker is the very first timepiece that manages to replicate the game in an automaton watch. The ease of use when playing Poker is as impressive and unexpected as its intrinsic complexity. Up to three players face each other around the watch. The first hand is dealt by means of a pusher at 9 o'clock. This winds up a spring, which simultaneously spins four concentric discs —one of which made from sapphire— on which the cards are printed. There is no way of speculating as to the position of the discs. After a few moments the discs are immobilized at random by dampers. All the discs are mounted on ceramic or ruby bearings so they turn as freely as possible. Once the push-piece at 9 o'clock has been pressed, the now shuffled cards are dealt in windows at 6 o'clock, 10:30 and 2:30. An ingenious mechanism of angled shutters makes them invisible to the other players. After this first betting round, the pusher at 10 o'clock reveals the flop, i.e. three cards which appear on the left of the dial. Another push-piece at 8 o'clock then reveals the turn, one card on the right of the dial. Finally, the same push-piece deals out the river, also on the right of the dial. True to his mastery of chiming watches, Christophe Claret equipped Poker with a cathedral gong, which sounds whenever the flop and turn/river pushers are pressed.
Now comes the showdown. The dial of Poker is entirely made and assembled within Manufacture Claret and was designed to offer excellent legibility of both the time and the Poker game. With subtle decoration, a matte black ring, open-worked with playing cards, is overlaid on a silvered background. Emblematic of the brand, the ruby and titanium hands —
among the most expensive to make because of the complexity of machining these precious materials— are enhanced by a luminescent coating. The hour indexes are on the bezel so as not to crowd the stage. Although the dial has an incredible 77 components, its balanced harmonious design ensures that the players are not distracted. And, in a final detail that aficionados may appreciate, a breath of air forming condensation on the watch sapphire crystal reveals a pin-up girl… Welcome to the world of the casino! This world of the casino even continues through to the back of the watch. The transparent case-back provides a view of the oscillating winding rotor in the form of a roulette wheel.
This rotor design is already an icon of the Christophe Claret Interactive Gaming Complication collection. Once activated by one or two shaking motions, the oscillating weight turns for a few moments before stopping: no more bets please! An arrow points to one of the 37 numbers on an inner ring. Did your number come up by chance? If so, it may have been thanks to a special key opposite a green emerald set on the case back. This personalization is much appreciated by those who believe in their lucky number.
Poker is available in four different references: two-tone, black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium and white gold; two-tone, black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium and red gold; monochrome, black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium, with blue spinel hands; and monochrome, black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium with red ruby hands. Poker is covered by a worldwide patent. Each case material is limited to just 20 pieces. Poker is an exceptional timepiece, which, like winning a big game, is only for the lucky few. The video at the bottom of this post will give you a better idea about the way this watch works.
Sticker Price $180,000-$194,000 USD. For more info on Christophe Claret click here.
Video: Fonderie 47 Inversion Principle.
Fonderie 47 was founded in 2009 by Peter Thum with the goal of reducing the number of destabilizing assault weapons in Africa. Thum realized the enormous problem these weapons created, having met boys and young men armed with assault rifles, and the victims of these weapons, while developing clean water projects in east Africa. Thum decided to transform these implements of devastation into something as removed from them and as positive as possible, i.e. exclusive objects that would inspire change and fund the destruction of weapons.
Insider: Fonderie 47 Inversion Principle. Transforming AK-47s Into Timepieces and Jewelry for Goodwill.
Fonderie 47 was founded in 2009 by Peter Thum with the goal of reducing the number of destabilizing assault weapons in Africa. Thum realized the enormous problem these weapons created, having met boys and young men armed with assault rifles, and the victims of these weapons, while developing clean water projects in east Africa. There are millions of assault weapons in Africa. A large majority of these are AK47 variants. In Africa, assault rifles cost about 70% less than anywhere else in the world. While prices of AK47s have generally risen worldwide over the last three decades, they have fallen in Africa due to the sheer number of weapons and ease of availability. Thum decided to transform these implements of devastation into something as removed from them and as positive as possible, i.e. exclusive objects that would inspire change and fund the destruction of weapons. The mission to create a high-end mechanical watch incorporating metal from a destroyed AK47 began even before Fonderie 47 was founded, because it quickly became clear that the development and production of a completely original complicated haute horlogerie timepiece would take many years. Fonderie 47 has also worked with some of the world’s best designers and jewelers to create artistic pieces made from AK47 steel, precious metals and jewels. Working with the Nobel Prize winning NGO Mines Advisory Group, to date Fonderie 47 has funded the destruction of over 30,000 assault rifles in war zones in Africa. The name of this manufacture in the Vallée de Joux comes from the French word 'fonderie' —foundry for melting and casting metal— and '47' for AK47. Below, we have included the amazing video produced by Fonderie 47 that explains the principles and vision behind this amazing watch project.
Inversion Principle is a completely original timepiece, designed by Adrian Glessing and developed and produced by David Candaux —the man behind the Badollet Ivresse— and his team at Du Val Des Bois exclusively for Fonderie 47. Revenues from the sale of each timepiece will be used to fund the destruction of one thousand assault weapons in Africa, creating a safer environment for aid and development. This is a strategy that Peter Thum already implemented successfully in creating Ethos Water to fund clean water projects in Africa and around the world. While Inversion Principle is first and foremost a very exclusive haute horlogerie timepiece, subtle elements and mechanisms discreetly feature key attributes of the AK47. Each timepiece incorporates a plate on the back made from the transformed steel of a destroyed assault weapon.
Inversion Principle is a timepiece with a central three-minute flying tourbillon, instantaneous jumping hours with quick-set pusher, 240° retrograde minutes and lateral and back power reserve indicators. Orbiting on high above the movement, the central 3-minute flying tourbillon dominates the three-dimensional dial and mesmerizes the eye. Three second-hands, equally spaced 120° apart around the tourbillon cage, arc sedately across the seconds-scale above the tourbillon and 'Fonderie 47': 'Sedately' because tourbillon revolves at just 1/3 of the speed of a traditional one-minute tourbillon. While only one second-hand is visible at any time − the other two are hidden under the gold rifle-sight inspired frame set into the sapphire crystal − their positions are revealed by blued screws joining the outer tourbillon cage and inner three-arm hub.
A first, or even a second, glance is unlikely to divulge any obvious similarity between jumping hours, retrograde seconds and an AK47; however, avoiding blatantly obvious connections is the aim. On a more ethereal level however, gun mechanisms snap sharply and precisely into place: As does the instantaneous jumping hour at 12 o'clock as it changes the hour; and the large 240° retrograde seconds hand as it flies back to zero each hour across the bottom of the dial. Each press of the quick-set pusher in the crown advances the jumping hours by one hour.
The long 6-day power reserve has both a lateral indication via a sapphire window set into the left side of the case band and a second indication visible through the display back.
The display back reveals the stunning sunray guilloché pattern radiating out from the ratchet wheel on the calibre F47-001 which is capped by a dark plate of transformed steel from a destroyed AK47. The plate is in the form of the Fonderie 47 brand symbol and rotates as the watch is wound. The serial number of the destroyed weapon the metal is from '56-3701F42', is elegantly hand engraved beside the plate. “A mentor taught me what he thought generated the fundamental values of watchmaking: The eye; the hand; and the heart. These are values that guide my work. A timepiece built around these values generates powerful emotions.” David Candaux —Inversion Principle watchmaker.
The Fonderie 47 Inversion Principle is available in a limited edition of 20 pieces: 10 in 18K white gold and 10 in 18K red gold.
Sticker Price $350,000 USD. For more info on Fonderie 47 click here.
Technical Specifications of the Fonderie 47 Inversion Principle
Limited edition of 20 pieces: 10 in white gold and 10 in red gold. Created by: David Candaux/Du Val Des Bois. Designed by: Adrian Glessing. Place of Manufacture: La Vallée de Joux, Switzerland.
Indications: Jumping hours, 240° retrograde minutes; central seconds on tourbillon cage; lateral power reserve indicator on case band and power reserve indicator on back.
Case and strap
Material: 18k white gold or 18k red gold.
Sapphire crystal traversed by embedded gold bezel bridge framing tourbillon cage.
Lateral sapphire window in case band for power reserve indicator.
Dimensions: 42mm x 14.6mm
Water resistance: 30 meters.
Dial: Translucent glass and sapphire crystal with enameled minutes and seconds.
Strap and clasp: hand stitched alligator strap with gold pin buckle matching case. Brown leather with red gold case or black leather with white gold case.
Movement: Caliber F47-001
Regulator: Central three-minute flying tourbillon.
Tourbillon cage: gold counter weight and curved to follow sapphire crystal.
Jumping hour: thin mechanism —patented.
Retrograde seconds: mechanism with light aluminum arm and precision regulator.
Power reserve: Six days.
Balance frequency: 18,000 vph.
Jewels: 38
Steel plate from transformed AK47 − serial number '56-3701F42' − in form of Fonderie 47 brand symbol on ratchet wheel visible through display back.
Finishing: Sun ray guilloche; hand engraving; hand polished bevels; heat-blued screws and power reserve indicator on back.
